Thursday, June 16, 2011

Day 22 - Europe 2011

Day 22 - Wednesday, June 15, 2011 - Tuttlingen to Mengen - Trip 73.26 kms Time 4:28:30

Had a nice quiet room except for the plumbing in the next room. I got up at 7:00 and went down for b'fast at 7:30. The waitress, with one helper, was already very busy. In spite of that I was able to order a hot chocolate to go with my b'fast which she had the young lad bring right away. I was able to make myself a ham and cheese brotchen and also took a hard boiled egg, a banana and an orange for lunch.
There was a table with six women and a handicaped guy next to me. The 60+ year old guy had much difficulty getting about with only the help of a walking stick. He asked the waitress for a towel which he placed across the seat of one of the 3 extra chairs he had gathered around himself. He then started cutting up some ham on a plate that he placed on the chair with the towel on it. This was all very fascinating. Why couldn't he eat at the table like all the others? A few minutes later another lady arrived with a small yappy dog. It jumped up on the chair with the towel and the guy started feeding it the ham!!!
When I went to check out I found out I had to pay 52 E and not 42 E as I'm pretty sure I was quoted on arrival. But this was a different receptionist and she insisted the lowest room rate they had was 52E. I didn't want to make a big deal of it and felt I was probably being charged extra because of all the goodies I had taken for my lunch.
I set off for Nendingen at 9:00 but couldn't find the cycle path along the Danube in spite of retracing my route from yesterday. After a couple of kms I gave up and set the GPS for Nendingen. It took me around the block and right back to the Hotel Schrack where I had just set off from. This time I made a right turn. It was only an extra little tour of 4 kms.
After Nendingen I passed through Muhlheim, Fridingen, Beuron, Hausen, Gutenstein, Inzigkofen, Sigmaringen, Sigmaringendorf, Scheer, Ennetach and Mengen. I was able to get on the Danube cycle path most of the way but it was mostly wet, muddy, hard pack through forest like terrain. Quite hilly. Lots of cyclists. I chatted with several along the way. My bike needs a good cleaning especially the chain and rear cassette, etc.
I arrived in Mengen at 2:45. Dark clouds were threatening rain. I had cycled 73 kms so decided to look for an hotel and possibly get some laundry done. I checked into the Hotel Baier at 3:00. A room with b'fast and Wi-Fi cost 38 E. I got the receptionist to write it down this time so there would be no misunderstandings. I asked about a laundromat. Small town - no laundromat. But he said he would ask his wife if she would do a wash load for me. I went up to the 2nd floor with him to see her. She was busy cleaning rooms but agreed to do my laundry. Not sure how much it was going to cost me though. I went downstairs to the bar for a beer and was able to hook up to the Wi-Fi. I filled out my journal and did Day 21 of my Blog. I returned to my room and lay down for a nap before going out for dinner.
Walked the whole length of the Hauptstrasse. Only one café open with several customers sitting outside on the sidewalk terasse. I went inside as there were no more tables available outside. It was much hotter inside. I ordered a cheese burger with a hot chili sauce (not) a salad and pommes frites and a beer. On the way back to the hotel I stopped at a Volksbank and was able to withdraw some money to keep me going for another week.
It was very hot in my room. I wasn't able to get a Wi-Fi connection in my room in spite of having a seperate code that would allow me to make an Internet connection. The signal was to weak. Unable to get the TV to work either. Off to bed 9:30.
Cheers, Roly

Wednesday, June 15, 2011

Day 21 - Europe 2011

Day 21 - Tuesday, June 14, 2011 - Titisee to Tuttlingen - Trip 74.20 kms Time 4:19:50

Had to get up through the night a couple times due to cramps. My legs don't like all this climbing all the time. Went down to the restaurant at 7:40 to check my e-mail and started Day 19 Blog while waiting for b'fast to start at 8:00. The waitress came by to let me know that b'fast would be ready at 8:00. A German fellow came in at 7:50. He couldn't wait and went directly into b'fast. He was back out in less than 10 minutes. I was able to make myself a cold cut and cheese baguette sandwich for lunch and a hard boiled egg. I paid for my night's lodging (44.50 E) which included a beer. Loaded my panniers on my bike and was about to set off for Donaueschingen when I remembered I hadn't returned my room key. Went back into hotel to drop off the key and asked the receptionist if he had a map of the local area from Titisee to Donaueschingen. He shuffled through a drawer full of maps and pulled one out. He then made a photocopy of the section that I had to travel and highlighted the correct route to follow. I set off at 9:18. Pretty tough climb most of the way to ......... I reached 965 M on my watch altimeter. I stopped to reset my GPS. A local pulled up and asked if I needed help with directions. I told him I was going to Donaueschingen via ........ He said I was headed in the right direction but warned me about the Umleitung which I would be OK to take with my Rad. Turned out he was right. It was a very nice smooth, well paved road. I only had to get off my bike to cross 8-10 meters of very lose sand. The road crew guys just waved me on through.
I arrived in Donaueschingen at 11:30. I found a quiet spot by a river (Danube?) and had a picnic. While eating my lunch I was entertained by a mother duck and her ducklings swimming about on the river. I left for Pforen at 12:30. Passed through Neudingen, Gutmadingen & Geisingen. I was heading for Moringen where I hoped to find lodging for the night. I was travelling on the B311 when I went over an expansion joint on a bridge over the Donau and got a puncture in my rear tire. It was 1:40. I had to walk 200 metres before I could get off the road to fix my flat. I couldn't find any signs of what caused the flat.
I set off for Immendingen at 2:30 and passed through Mohringen. Some light rain, lots of dark clouds. I decided to start looking for a place to spend the night. Nothing until I reached Tuttlingen. I checked into the first hotel I came upon, the Hotel Schlack, a 3 star hotel at 42 E/night including b'fast and free Wi-Fi, at 3:45. At 4:30 there was a terrific downpour complete with lightning and thunder.
After locking up my bike in the garage (there were no other bikes there) I carried my panniers up to my room on the 1st floor. Very nice room. Checked out the Wi-Fi and went down to the bar for a beer. I filled out my journal and completed Day 19 of my blog which I had started earlier before leaving Titisee.
I asked the receptionist for directions to a Chinese restaurant. On the way I went into an Apotheke to buy some nail clippers. My Swiss Army Knife nail clippers were just not up to the task. I found the Chinese restaurant and had a nice meal of Spring Rolls and Nasi-Goreng. The chili sauce was extra hot!!! Washed it all down with an Export beer. There were no customers - just one who came in to pick up a take out order. The waitress brought me a shot of apple Schnapps on the house. I walked back to the hotel. Streets very quiet. Went up to my room and did Day 20 of my blog. I was also able to upload several photos. Off to bed 22:00.
Cheers, Roly

Tuesday, June 14, 2011

Day 20 - Europe 2011

Day 20 - Monday, June 13, 2011 - Freiburg to Titisee - Trip 49.94 kms Time 4:03:39

Yesterday I was able to get on the flaky Internet terminal at the Hotel Sonne just long enough to log into my RBC account and check out what was happening. I noticed there were 2 withdrawals of 400 E one on June 2nd and one on June 6th and my balance was down to $48.00. I was able to transfer $1000 into my account from my Line of Credit. Later on I checked all my receipts but couldn't find a receipt for the 2nd withdrawal yet all my hotel and meal expenses justified a 2nd withdrawal. It wasn't until later when I was on my way to Donaueschingen that I remembered stopping for lunch (I even took a photo of the lentil soup with 2 sausages that I had) and going to a bank machine across the street afterwards to get some cash. I didn't get a receipt and thought at the time this is not a good idea. I should have gotten a receipt but there was no one around as it was a local holiday.
I set off for D. at 9:30 and hadn't even gone 3 kms before running into an Umleitung. There was a gas station convenience store nearby so I went in and had hot chocolate, sausage pastry and choco croissant for b'fast. I asked for directions and was told that I could continue straight on to get on the road to D. I ignored the "No Bicycle Signs" and managed to make my way through the road works. Soon it was uphill all the way at 6-12 kph. I must have climbed for about 2 hours. At 885 metres (according to my new watch altimeter) I stopped at a gas station and went in to get something cold to drink and a bite to eat. The road (B11 I think) was very busy. I later found out it was a local holiday.
Just as I was about to leave it started drizzling. I put on my rain gear and covered my panniers. The temperature had dropped quite a bit or maybe it was the higher altitude but whatever I was feeling quite chilly in spite of still climbing and having to push hard. At 30 kms I stopped to check my GPS. It said I still had 27 kms to go to get to D. A few kms later I passed a sign for D. pointing in the opposite direction. It said it was 32 kms to D. I reluctantly trusted the lower distance of my GPS and continued on in the direction it indicated.
I arrived in Titisee at 2:30 quite exhausted. It was clouding over and threatening to rain. I found an hotel with Wi-Fi, b'fast included, for 42 E. Only problem was my room was on the 3rd floor and there was no elevator!!! It's only a matter of time before the hills or the stairs do me in!!!
After getting settled in I went down to the reception to log on to the Internet. The receptionist was very helpful. She set me up at a quiet corner table in the restaurant where I could plug in my NoteBook and showed me how to log on to the Hotel Wi-Fi service and served me a beer. I had a very good connection and was able to to Days 16 & 17 of my blog.
I decided to go out for a walk (the sun had come out again) and check out the town. It was full of tourist due to the local holiday. Lots of hotels, gift shops, restaurants, boats for hire, etc. the usual tourist town stuff. Cuckoo Clocks started at 300+ E. I took a few pictures down by the lake, found an Italian restaurant and went in for dinner. A 1/2 L of Lambrusco (to sweet & fizzy), Knoblauchtoast (garlic toast) and Penne Al Forno cost 20 E. 19% Mwst. included. (I assume this is the service?)
I walked back to the hotel. Most of the tourist had left for the day. It was only 8:00 PM. I was able to to Day 18 of my blog before climbing up the 3 flights of stairs to my room and hitting the sack for the night.
Cheers, Roly

Monday, June 13, 2011

Day 19 - Europe 2011

Day 19 - Sunday, June 12, 2011 - Marckolsheim to Neuf-Brisach to Freiburg
Trip 53:06 Time 3:16:03


Had a good night's sleep for a change. No noisy kids. No church bells until 7 AM. Went down for b'fast at 8 AM. Ordered juice and hot chocolate to go with the fresh croissante, baquette, butter, jams, cheese, etc. Paid Madame 40 E for my nights lodging. Carried my panniers downstairs to the courtyard and got my bike out of the garage. Lots of antiques just lying about in the garage!!!

My chain was sounding a bit rough from all the rain and dusty trails I'd cycled through so I put some oil on it before setting off for Neuf-Brisach at 9:30. The British cyclist I had met last night had told me about a fantastic old fort there that was well worth exploring.

I stopped at a bank for another 400 E withdrawal. Oh Oh - insufficient funds. I tried for 300 E and that worked out OK. Must top up my chequing account again!!!

Saw a bunch of Old Timer cars (early 1900s) heading for Strasbourg. What a sight and sound. I should have shot a movie.

I arrived in Neuf-Brisach at 10:30 and went directly to the Fortifications de Vauban a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A young lady said it was free to tour the ramparts and that I could take my bicycle. But first I had to negotiate a set of very steep steps with a ramp on the side for bikes. The extra weight of the panniers caused me to lose my balance, the brakes didn't grab and I came down in a hell of a hurry. I wasn't hurt but I did feel a bit foolish. I went around the fort on my bike and came to a steep gravel exit. Rather than attempt to cycle up this steep path I decided to get off my bike and walk up. Unfortunately, as I was getting off I slipped and fell on my tush. A paserby just kept on going - didn't even bother to ask if I was OK! Decided it was time to take a break and found a quiet spot with park benches and sat down to eat an apple.
I continued on to Breisach. Started seeing mountains looming in the distance a glimpse of what was to come. Crossed over the Rhein and stopped at a McDs for lunch at 11:50.
I continued on to Freiburg arriving at 2:00 PM. Stopped at Hotel Sonne (45 E w/c & shower in the hall & b'fast 12 E) to check it out. No Wi-Fi in the room - just a station set up opposite the reception. I decided to go on and see what else I could find. There was a kiosk about 2 kms further down the road with a list of hotels and how much they cost. The cheapest was 65 E with Wi-Fi but it was fully booked. I went back to the Sonne. As I was taking my panniers to my room on the 3rd floor I saw this twit come out of the shower with a towel wrapped around him that was far to small exposing his butt. He quickly slipped into his room. After locking up my bike at the back of the hotel under a lean-to I went into the bar for a beer. I ordered a Ganter Freiburg Badisch Weizen Bier. Tasted like smoked ham. Not my kinda bier!
I did a tally of how much I have cycled so far and came up with a total of 1357 kms. Heading for Donaueschingen tomorrow and the start of the Danube.
I went out for dinner and brought my Notebook along with me hoping to find a Wi-Fi Cafe. Must of walked 3-4 kms until I came to the Banhof and saw a McDs and a BK. McDs had Wi-Fi but you had to have a Telecom account to access it or pay .90 E/minute for an account. I went over to the BK. They had two terminals which cost 1 E for 10 minutes. They looked pretty beat up so decided not to bother as it would just be to frustrating. Walked over to a Kebap restaurant across the street and had a terrific Doner Kebap sandwich and coke. Stopped for icecream on the way back to the hotel.
I asked the manager if I could watch TV. She said OK. I found the Canadian GP on WDR. The race had been delayed after 30 laps due to heavy rainfall. Eventually the race was restarted and I was able to watch the last 40 laps of much chaos as it was still raining and the track was very wet. I won't say anymore about the race in case someone reading this blog has taped the race and hasn't watched it yet.
Finally hit the sack at 11:30. Lot's of traffic noise in spite of my room being on the backside of the hotel. I woke up at 3:30 AM all sweaty because of the heavy duvet....
Cheers, Roly

Day 18 - Europe 2011

Day 18 - Saturday, June 11, 2011 - Strasbourg to Marckolsheim - Trip 106.51 Time 6:41:29

NEVER AGAIN!!! will I stay in a 4-bed Youth Hostel room. Felix (German) has a bad cold and had to blow his nose all night. The 2 other guys (I found out they were Quebekers later on) kept coming and going until 2 AM. One came in at 1:30 he was so pissed he couldn't get the swipe card to work to get the door open. He had to go downstairs and get the night receptionist to come and help him get the door open. I'll be damned if I was going to get up and let him in!!! He stumbled around for 5-10 minutes then fell into bed and soon started snoring. Not to loud thank goodness. There were also several football teams (ages around 12) staying at the Y.H. They were up until midnight running amok. Then to top it all off there were several volleys of very loud, rapid gunfire (probably fireworks) at 11:30. Probably to culminate the concert in the park.
In spite of all the racket I did manage to get a few hours of sleep.
Went down for b'fast at 7:00. No sign of any activity in restaurant. I checked at reception. Told b'fast wasn't until 7:30. I showed him my welcome note with b'fast highlighted in pink and it definitely said b'fast was at 7:00 to 10:00. He went off to get things started I think. I waited another 15-20 minutes before going in to restaurant to start b'fast. It was a disaster. No juice. The tea was very weak. Should have had a hot chocolate. Brotchen with butter and jams and a croissant. Two choices of cereal corn flakes or coco puffs. And of course the noise and shouting of the football kids. I couldn't get out of there fast enough. Felix had joined me for b'fast. He had a pretty bad cold. He was supposed to cycle all the way to the Bodensee and then back home. Not sure if he made it or not. I said goodbye and wished him a safe trip.
When I went to the "Velo Garage" to collect my bike I noticed two bikes with trailers. One of them had a Quebec and a Canada flag on the back of it. That's when I realized the two guys who were still asleep were most likely Quebekers.
I set my GPS for Illkirch-Graffenstaden and set off at 8:20. The GPS took me over a bridge towards Kehl which was on the German side of the Rhine. I wanted to stay on the French side. I reset the GPS and went back over the bridge towards Strasbourg. Eventually I started heading South towards I-G. I saw a bike path (paved) along "Canal du Rhone-au-Rhin" with a sign indicating Eschau. This looked like the cycle route indicated in my Rhein-Radweg guide. It turned out to be an on and off again path and eventually I got lost and somehow ended up back in Strasbourg. It took me another hour to figure out how to get out of Strasbourg. I ended up passing the same sign for Eschau again. This time I kept to the road and eventually was on my way. (3 hours and 30 kms to get out of Strasbourg)!!! Needless to say I was not a happy camper or cyclists for that matter. I swore I would not have anything more to do with "Canal du Rhone-au-Rhin". I passed through Krafft, Gersheim, Boofzheim, Diebolsheim, etc. and eventually arrived in Marckolsheim only after going to Mackenheim which I confused for Marckolsheim.
I checked out several Gites de France along the way but all were fully booked or no answer. I lucked in in Marckolsheim. Found a nice Gites for 40 E including b'fast. No Wi-Fi. Madame who was running the Gites was very friendly and chatty.
After lugging my panniers up to my room I went out around the corner to a horse betting bar. Had a couple beers and updated my journal. It was now 6:00 PM and I decided to have a pizza for dinner at the restaurant next door. Only they didn't start serving pizzas until 6:30. Went back to my room to freshen up and change before returning to Raphy's Grill for wine and a pizza paysanne. It was OK but deffinitely not up to Christopher's standards.
I noticed my thumbs are taking on the shape of my handle bar horns. Instead of being straight they are taking on an S-shape!!! I noticed another cyclist in the restaurant checking out a Rhein-Radweg cycle guide. I went over and introduced myself. He turned out to be a Britisher from London cycling from Basel to Rotterdam? along the Rhine for the 3rd time. He's writting his own cycle guide which he says will be published in 2013. Unfortunately I didn't get his name. He didn't think much of the Rhein-Radweg guides. He felt they were very innacurate. I couldn't agree more after my Canal du Rhone-au-Rhin experience.
Cheers, Roly

Day 17 - Europe 2011

Day 17 - Friday, June 10, 2011 - Rheinau to Strasbourg - Trip 39.57 kms Time 2:37:04

The itchiness from whatever caused my rash on my arms and knees is almost gone. Getting to sleep last night was a bit of a challenge. Someone was boucing a ball sort of like Steve McQueen in The Great Escape everytime he was put into isolation in the Gestapo POW camp. Finally someone took the ball away and I was able to get some rest.
I went down for b'fast at 8:00. No one else around. Even the waitress was out on the terrace in the "Biergarten" wiping down tables. She finally showed up and brought me some tea. A Dutch couple then arrived with a 2 year old. He must have been the little bugger that kept boucing that ball!!!. They turned out to be a nice young couple from Utrecht on their way to Italy for a holiday. Lots of goodies for b'fast. I was also able to make myself a ham and cheese brotchen for lunch later plus a hard boiled egg.
Finished packing and and went down to restaurant to check out. Paid waitress 40 E for room. First Beer wasn't on bill so I told her I owed her for a large Export that the chef had served me on arrival. She charge me 3.50 E. Next time I'll just keep my mouth shut or ....
I left for Strasbourg at 9:20. GPS said it was 18 kms but by the time I reached the outskirts I still had another 17 to go after resetting my GPS. I saw a bicycle sign for Robertsau (which is a suburb of Strasbourg). The sign said it was 14.5 kms so I decided to head in that direction. It turned out to be a nice quiet ride through a forest and into the centre of Strasbourg.
I followed the signs for "Centre Ville" hoping to find a Tourist Information Centre. I had to stop at a gas station to ask for directions and was told I would find "Service de Tourisme" at the Cathedral. I could see the Cathredal not far off but getting there was a bit of a challenge. So many narrow, cobbled stoned, one-way streets. Eventually I found the Office de Tourisme, locked my bike and went inside and stood in a queue for about 15 minutes.
Finally it was my turn and the lady asked me in German what I needed help with in spite of the fact that I was wearing my Canada jersey. I said I would prefer French or English. She was embarassed! I got directions to a laundromat, Youth Hostel and several other hotels. Paid 1 E for a map of Strasbourg.
I managed to find the laudromat but had no change for the machines and there was no change machine. Went next door to a pizza place and asked for change for 10 E. Sorry no change!! A young lady waiting to be served kindly offered to give me change for 10 E. I went back to my laundry. Put 2 E in the machine for 1 E of soap. Got just a trickle of soap and no change. Just then the manager appeared. He checked out the soap dispensing machine and found it was plugged up with a chunk of soap. He gave me back my 2 E and enough soap for 4 loads of laundry. I ended up doing a huge load of laundry for 7 E and 2 E for the dryer. I had lunch while watching my clothes go round and round ...
Set off for Youth Hostel at 1:30. On the way I passed a mobile shop. Went in to see if I could get on of my mobiles working. I ended up paying 10 E for a new SIM card for my Belgian Mobistar with 7.50 E credit I added another 10 E of credits. I was assured this would work in all of Europe. We'll see. So far I haven't had to use my mobile and I've stopped getting text messages from Mobistar about my credits having run out. I guess that's because there SIM card is no longer in the phone.
The Youth Hostel was rather difficult to find. It was way off the beaten path. A room with 4 cots in it cost 22 E with w/c and shower in the room and b'fast. A large towel cost 3 E. No Wi-Fi but there was Internet available for 2.50 E/hour. I carried my panniers up to the 2nd floor. No one else in the room. YET! I then found out that the YH had laundry facilities after reading the welcome note. I checked it out but there was only one small washing machine and one dryer and they were both busy. It would have cost me a bit more to do my laundry at the YH as I would have had to do 2 loads.
While I was settling into room a young German fellow arrived. We had a nice chat in German and English. He had cycled from Manheim in 2 days. He was exhausted. He made up his bed and went to sleep. It was only 4:30!!! I went out to see if I could find a Wi-Fi connection and something to eat. Ended up at a Middle East restaurant. I had a very nice couscous. It was far to much. I was a bit nervous while eating. There were a dozen or so young punks hanging out outside the restaurant drinking Jim Beam and dealing drugs. I went out and locked up my bike. Took some pics. Where are the polizei!!!
On the way back to the hostel I stopped at an open air concert in the park. People were coming from all directions with picnic hampers, blankets, etc. I stopped and listened to the full size orchestra for a while but it was getting a bit chilly and I hadn't brought a jacket so I headed back to the hostel. Locked my bike in the "Velo Garage" for the night.
While I had been out two more "guest" had arrived. It was a full house. Went off to bed at 9:00
Cheers, Roly

Day 16 - Europe 2011

Day 16 - Thursday, June 9, 2011 - Rastatt to Rheinau - Trip 84.64 kms Time 5:15:58

After checking out of the Best Western went across the street to the Burger King for b'fast. It was closed until 11 but the gas station convenience store was open so I was able to get some juice, etc for b'fast before setting off for Iffezheim at 9:00 AM. I hadn't gone far before I hit an Umleitung. I hate Umleitungs!!! I missed a right turn and ended up going up a very steep hill for about 2 kms before my GPS told me to "make a U-Turn when possible". I reluctantly turned around and went back down the hill at a much fast rate than I had climbed it. I found the proper route and was once again back on the main road after 7-8 kms. I headed for Sollingen but once again ended up going up a very steep hill with a sign saying "Anleiger Frei". I think that means local traffic only. But often it is OK for cycles to pass. I had to get off and push my bike up part of this hill it was so long and very steep. I finally reached the top and the road turned to gravel with lots of pot holes filled with water and went on through the woods for about a kilometer. I finally came out to a nice view of the vineyards and a village below. I stopped for a snack and admired the scenery. It was a little hairy going down as the road was badly paved and very narrow. I was on the brakes all the way down. Later I had a look at my Rhine Cycle Guide and I think I might have gone around the backside of the Karlsruhe/Baden-Baden Flughafen. A very small airport - no signs of any planes though.
Around noon I stopped at a Backerei for lunch. I know - I know - I'm supposed to avoid the backereis but there was nothing else available for lunch. I went in and bought a slice of very healthy looking rhubarb custard pie and a 1/2 L of chocolate milk to wash it down with. There was a table and chairs outside so I was able to sit and enjoy my lunch which also consisted of a sausage pastry which I had bought earlier at the gas station convenience store.
I continued on to Rheinau arriving at 3 PM. Since I didn't want a repeat of last night I started looking for an hotel. I found the Waldorn but it appeared to be closed. A sign said it was open from 17:00 to 23:00. It was only 3 PM!!! I went around the back to the "Biergarten" and found the chef who checked me in and served me a nice cold beer.
After checking in and updating my journal I went up to my room for a short nap before coming down for dinner at 6:30. I asked about Wi-Fi and the waitress gave me the code so I could get on the Internet. I had a nice snitzel with rahm sauce, pommes frites, salad and beer for 14 E. Went back up to room and read Tim Sparling's blog re KNBC Paris/Nice trip. Also worked on Day 14 & 15 of my blog.
Cheers, Roly