Monday, July 27, 2009

South Shields 27July09

Continued from last post... From Boulmer, I set off on a narrow paved road which soon turned into two narrow rocky ruts mostly used by farm machinery. Nevertheless, I pressed on and soon arrived at a sandy beach where I had to get off and walk. There was a gate which I passed through, more sand and then a short narrow wooden bridge to cross. Once on the other side I was on a narrow uphill foot path for about 200 yds which then became two narrow rocky ruts again. All in all it was a stretch of about 1 km. There were quite a few people on the "beach" who had come by car. I was never so happy to reach the narrow paved road which eventually led me through Longhoughton and on to Howick. I had to negotiate a couple more gates, pass through a couple farm yards, complete with sheep dogs sunning themselves by the barns, before arriving at the Howick Hall Gardens. I cycled across a parking lot of sharp stones and stopped at the kiosk to enquire about my niece who lives at The West Lodge on the Howick Estate. The gentleman looking after the kiosk tried to call the nursery, where my niece helps out, but could not get an answer. I asked him if he knew where the West Lodge was. He said yes he knew where it was. When I asked if he would kindly point me in the right direction he hesitated. I then realized he expected me to pay the £5.00 entrance fee to the gardens before he would tell me how to get to the West Lodge. I was quite stunned and left in a huff. A few minutes later a guy wearing a Howick Gardens shirt showed up and asked if he could help me. I explained that I had cycled from Canada and was visiting my niece, Lindsey, who lived at The West Lodge with her partner Steve Tennant. He knew both Steve and Lindsey and agreed to show me the way. No charge!!! The Lodge was located about 1 km away on the other side of the gardens along a rutted rocky road. I arrived at 2 PM. After putting away my bags and bike we drove over to the nursery where Lindsey had to help out for awhile. I went for a walk into Craster about 2 kms away. There is a castle there and from a distance it looked very much like the castle on Holy Island which I had visited on a previous visit to England. I decided to go for a beer instead. On the way I passed a building with smoke coming out of it. The sign read "We smoke kippers". Sure smelled like it to.... After a nice pint of lager I walked back to the nursery where Lindsey was just about finished for the day. We drove back to her quaint little cottage where I was introduced to Steve who showed me the generators that were used to provide electricity for the cottage which dated back to 18?? There was a cast iron oven with a log fire burning in the fire place. When I asked Steve if the fire was to keep the damp off he explained to me it was used for heating and for providing hot water.
The following day I cycled back to South Shields stopping off in Alnwick to check out Barter Book Shop which, according to the Cycle Britain guide, is the largest 2nd hand book store in England. It was huge. I did manage to find a rare book that my son Keith asked me to look for. It will remain a surprise until I get home??? The day started off a bit drizzly but by the time I had reached Alnwick the skies had cleared up and the remainder of the ride home along the main roads was a very pleasant one. I arrived in North Shields at 1:20, waited for the ferry for 5 minutes, and sailed for South Shields at 1:30, arriving back home at 2:00. Total distance was 93.52 mi. (150 kms) Time 8:23:35
Saturday, before cycling to Sunderland for the annual airshow on the beach with my brother-in-law and nephew, I checked over my bike. There was a squeaking noise coming from the rear derailleur and the chain was skipping when in the lower gears (larger rear cogs). I also decided to clean up the front and rear rims. As I was wipping down the front rim I notice the tube was sticking out about 1/4 inch from a cut in the side wall of the tire. I can only think that this must have happened when I was cycling over the sharp rocks in the parking lot at Howick Gardens or along the rocky rutted paths along the Coast or through the gardens. Fortunately, I had brought some tire patches and was able to make the necessary repair before setting off for the ride to Sunderland.
Well that's about all the cycling I plan to do for now. I will be leaving South Shields on August 2nd driving down to London (Gatwick) with my brother-in-law, Malcolm. My return flight to Ottawa leaves at 15:40 on August 3rd and arrives in Ottawa same day at 18:25. My daughter, Lise, has agreed to meet me on arrival so, Barrie, thanks for the offer to pick me up but that won't be necessary.
Cheers, Roly

Thursday, July 23, 2009

South Shields to Howick (near Alnwick)

Thursday July 23rd. Finally got some decent weather so decided to cycle to Howick to visit my niece, Lyndsey, who lives at West Lodge at Howick Hall Estate. I left South Shields at 8:45 and cycled to the ferry crossing for North Shields. Only had to wait 5 minutes for the next ferry to arrive. The ferry crossing cost £1.10 and left at 9:15. It only took 10 minutes to cross over to N. Shields. I had my GPS on and noticed that the ferry was travelling at 10 mph. Once in N. Shields I followed the road along the coast passing through Whitley Bay, Seaton Sluice, Blyth,East Sleekburn, Ellington, Lesbury, Boulmer, Longhoughton and arriving in Howick at 2:00. A very flat ride with only a few easy climbs and a lovely tail wind to help me on the way. At Boulmer I came to a fork in the road and saw a sign forbiding cars from proceeding along the coast but allowing bikes. I asked a local if I could continue if I could get to Howick by going along the coastal route. He said I could but I would have to walk my bike for several hundred yards as there was no road/path and a narrow wooden bridge to cross. To be continued....

Saturday, July 18, 2009

South Shields 18July09 Part V

On Wednesday, July 1st, I put on my Canada jersey (after all it was Canada Day) and cycled from Hartlepool to South Shields via Sunderland. When I set off I tried to set my GPS for Sunderland but for some unexplicable reason it couldn't seem to find it. I tried South Shields with the same results. I decided to follow the road signs for Sunderland and ended up on the A179/A19. I had wanted to follow the coast road but wasn't sure how to get on to it. Eventually I came to a sign pointing to Blackhall Colliery which, after checking my map, I found was on the coast. I turned right and headed for it. Somehow I ended up going south instead of directly east and ended up crossing over the A19 again, going through Hutton Henry and Wingate. In Wingate I tried setting my GPS for Ryhope which is just a bit south of Sunderland. My GPS was able to compute the route and eventually I was able to get over to the coast road but not for long. For some weird reason my GPS just didn't want me to go along the coast road!!! I arrived on the outskirts of Sunderland at noon and decided I would stop in at Jean and Ron Shaw's (Margy's aunt and uncle)home on Dovedale Road. They were expecting me and had saved a bit of lunch for me. After lunch, Ronnie who is 72 years old, decided to cycle the remaining 3.5 miles to South Shields with me in case I got lost. It was a fine sunny day with a bit of a tail wind so it only took us about 25 minutes to get to Nana's house on Leafield Crescent. Ronnie couldn't be persuaded to come in for a cup of tea as he had to get home to help Jean with the grandchildren and their paper routes. I put my bicycle away in the garage and brought my bags in the house. About an hour later, around 3:00 PM, the heavens opened up with a terrific thunderstorm. Talk about timing. I was glad to be safe and sound in Nana's house.
Hartlepoole to South Shields (+ detour) 57:51 kms time 3:25:40
TOTAL DISTANCE CYCLED: 2,832 KMS (1771 MILES)
That's all for now folks.....

Wednesday, July 15, 2009

South Shields 15July09 Part IV

On Tuesday, June 30th, I cycled from Whitby to Hartlepool. I just finished reading Barrie's comment to my last post. He wished me no more hills!!! Unfortunately this was not the case. In order to get on the highway towards Hartlepool I had to negotiate quite a steep climb up ChubbHill Road and I had only cycled 5 kms or so before I reached the first of several major hills. On the 2nd or 3rd climb as I was pushing my bike up the hill a girl passed me on her road bike. She had all the right cycling gear on and offered me encouragment. Jokingly, I asked her to throw me a tow rope. As she was cresting the hill she called back that she would carry one of my bags.... I suppose I would have had to catch up to her for that to happen. Anyways it's the thought that counts...so they say.
After crossing the Tees River I came to a large roundabout and took the wrong exit for Hartlepool. I had only gone a couple hundred yards when I came upon a barrier. It was the entrance to some sort of factory. I turned around and went back to the roundabout, stopped and decided to reset my GPS. A couple of teenagers on bikes stopped beside me and the lad asked me if I was going for a beer??? At least that's what I thought he said. I looked at him like he was from some other planet and of course I was thinking 'What kind of scam is this?' He pointed to his girlfriend's rear tyre (it was a British bike) and said did I have a patch. At this point I had cycled over 2500 kms and had yet to have a puncture (British for flat). I of course did have several patches and offered him one. The puncture was quickly repaired and once again I set off for Hartlepool. When I mentioned to my brother-in-law that I planned to stop in Hartlepool he told me that the countryside in this area was mostly industrial and therefore quite drab. He was right about that. Until I got to Seaton Carew, a lovely seaside resort. I must have passed about a 100 B&Bs but since it was only going on 2:00 PM I decided to push on for Hartlepool which was only another 10 or so kms up the coast. Another hill, push, push, push, hairpin turn, push, push, push. Finally made it up the hill. What a climb and what a spectacular view of the beach down below.
I arrived in Hartlepool at 3:00 (it was a really tough hill) but after that it was mostly flat. I rode around for 1/2 an hour looking for the T.I.C. There were several signs pointing to it but I'll be damned if I could find it. Finally I gave up and went back to a hotel/pub I had passed on the way into town. At least I thought it was a hotel and might have a room for the night. I went in and asked the barmaid if she had any rooms for the night. She informed me that they didn't do rooms. I asked if she knew where I might get a room for the night. She of course didn't and asked a couple of drunks sitting across the room if they knew of any hotels. They appeared to be in their 70's. One of them was wearing a skirt and was so pleased to help me find a place to stay for the night. I couldn't wait to get out of there. The barmaid suddenly remembered there was a hotel up the street and pointed me in that direction. I cycled to where she had directed me but again I'd be damned if I could find a hotel. I checked my GPS for hotels/motels and came up with the Grand Hotel not to far away. It was a Best Western. After locking up my bike, I went in to ask for a room. I noticed a sign on the reception desk stating rooms started at £75/night. That was a bit more than I wanted to pay but then I thought, after all it was my last night in a hotel. Unfortunately, or perhaps luckily, they were fully booked. The receptionist suggested I try the Hill Carter Hotel which was a three star hotel. I looked it up on my GPS and selected it. I ended up right back where the barmaid had sent me but again I'd be damned if I could find the entrance to the hotel. I went around front to the main street where there was an entrance to a pub. Locked my bike up (Hartlepool did not inspire a sense of security) and went up to the barmaid to ask about a room. She said I would have to go through several doors, etc and enquire at the hotel reception. What a carry on but in the end I did manage to get a room for the night with breakfast at £60. It turned out that there was a side door entrance to the hotel but there were no signs to indicate this. I have a feeling they must be missing out on a lot of customers seeing as how difficult it was to spot the entrance to their hotel. I was able to lock my bike up in a garage behind the hotel and carried my bags up to my room. Went back down to the pub for a couple of beers and updated my journal before going out to a Chinese restaurant across the street for dinner. By this time, 7:00 PM, the streets were virtually deserted. The OPEN sign outside the restaurant was lit up so I went in. Two ladies were sitting at a table which still had signs of a recent meal having been eaten there. I was quickly informed that they were closed. But I said your OPEN sign outside is lit up indicating that you are in fact OPEN. They assured me this was a mistake and that they were in fact closed and one lady kindly offered to give me direction to Timbuktoo where I might find another Chinese restaurant that might possibly be OPEN. I noticed there was a Thai restaurant a few doors away and said I would try it. It was OPEN and I had a wonderful meal including a dessert of deep fried bananas with ice cream. Walked back across the street to the "hotel" for a night cap. Not a soul in sight.
The next morning went up to the 4th floor for breakfast. Looked out the window at the church clock tower in the center of town and on the very top was a flag pole with the "i" symbol of the T.I.C!!!! Whitby to Hartlepool 79.31 kms Time 5:16:44

Sunday, July 12, 2009

South Shields 12July09 Part III

On Sunday, June 28th, left Dunswell at 9:20 after a very nice continental breakfast in my room. There was bananas, yogurt, cereal, juice, croissant, jams, tea or coffee. I cycled to Berveley (A1174) to Bridlington (A1035/A165) and stopped for lunch at 11:30. It was an overcast day and the route was quite hilly. I had hoped to make it to Whitby but by 2:00 I had only made it as far as Scaroborough. It was starting to get a big foggy so I decided to stop for the day. I found a nice hotel for £30/night with a nice view looking down a street towards the sea front. I put my bike away in a passageway below the stairs and took my bags up to my room. I went back down to the bar and asked about internet access (no luck) and a launderette (just down the street but closed on Sundays). So I had to settle for a beer. A small bus load of senior citizens arrived but otherwise I seemed to be the only guest in the hotel. I went for a walk into the centre of town to find a place to have dinner. It felt like a ghost town and of course with the fog coming in pretty thick I had an uncomfortable feeling. I managed to find an Italian restaurant and had a pleasant meal. I decided to walk back along the sea front to return to my hotel. By this time it was really getting quite foggy and I could barely make out some people down below on the beach walking their dogs. I made it to the funicular which was still in operation and after paying 70p rode up to the top of the embankment and walked up to my hotel. Had a glass of red wine to calm my nerves before going off to bed. Dunswell to Caistor 68.42 kms Time 4:03:04
Monday, 29June09. Before setting off for Whitby I decided to go to the lauderette and do some laundry. While there I met a mother and her 30 year old son who were also getting their laundry done before heading off to Whitby. I asked them to watch out for me as I would be cycling there. I set off for Whitby at 10:45, a bit late in the day, but it was only a 35 kms trip according to my GPS. What a ride though. There were several very steep hills 3 of which I had to get off my bike and walk. A cyclist with a small satchel on the back of his bag passed me on one of the hills. I later on caught up to him when I stopped at a holiday trailer park cafe for lunch. We had a nice chat and he warned my that there were still a couple more wicked hills to go before arriving in Whitby. I arrived in Whitby at 2:00 and headed straight for the T.I.C. to see if I could get some information on B&Bs for the night. On the way out I ran into the son who I had met at the launderette in Scarborough. He was quite pleased to see that I had arrived safely and said he would let his Mom know. Whitby was a far more interesting looking seaside resort compared to Scarborough and the weather was much improved. What a crowd of people wandering about the sea front. I had to get off my bike and walk it was so crowded. At the T.I.C. I was told that most of the B&Bs were located up Chubbhill Road so hopped on my bike and headed over there. By this time I was pretty tired and rather than try to go up to the top of Chubbhill to find a cheaper hotel stopped at the first one I came up to. Instead of £35 I ended up paying £40 but it was worth it to avoid having to cycle up one more hill. After settling in for the evening I walked into town for dinner. I was amazed to see that all the people had disappeared!!! and all the shops had closed with the exception of a couple hotel bars/restaurants. I managed to get some fish (Whitby Cod) and chips for dinner. Walked back to Big Sky B&B and watched a bit of Wimbledon on the telly. Scarborough to Whitby, N. Yorkshire 35.62 kms Time 2:28:29

Saturday, July 4, 2009

South Shields 04 July 09 Part II

Saturday, June 27th. Left Caistor at 9:25 AM and cycled to Barton Upon Humber via Brigg. Arrived at 11:30 AM and stopped at a petrol station convenience store for a sandwich and coke. Cycled across the Humber Bridge which had a seperate path for pedestrians and cyclists. When It was first built the Humber Bridge was the longest single span bridge in the world. After crossing the bridge I ended up in a huge car park. It took me 1/2 an hour to figure out how to get out of there and back on the proper road heading towards Bridlington. It took awhile to get through Kingston Upon Hull and as a result I ended up arriving in Dunswell at 2:00 PM. I saw a sign at the Ship Inn advertising rooms so went in and booked a room for the night. As a bonus there was a Chinese Restaurant not far away across the street. I was really looking forward to some nice chinese food for dinner that evening. After a couple of beers and getting my journal up-to-date I walked over to the Chinese restaurant. They were fully booked for the evening. But, I said, I've cycled all the way from Canada just to taste some of your fine Chinese cuisine. A young manager overheard me mention "Canada" and said something to the hostess in Chinese and the next thing you know she had a table set up for me in front of the bar and I was able to order. It turned out to be a really excellent meal. They were so nice to me and kept checking to see if everything was OK and if I needed anything else. After paying my bill the hostess came over and asked me all about my cycling trip. After dinner I returned to The Ship Inn for a nightcap. It was packed out but inspite of that I was able to get a drink and find a spot to sit down before going off to bed. The bar was decorated with all sorts of maritime/shipping artifacts and one in particular was a ships plaque taken off the engines which had NEWCASTLE stamped on it. I asked a couple of people sitting at the bar if they wouldn't mind moving so I could get a picture of the bar and the plaque above it explaining that my final destination was South Shields which was right next to Newcastle. Of course they were all very curious about my cycling trip and wanted to know where I would stop next. When I said Scarborough they all recommended that I go a little further to Whitby which was much nicer. By they I mean the bartender, waitress, cook, and patrons who were in the bar at the time. One gentleman, who worked for the railways, also offered to drive me from South Shields to London, Gatwick, if I needed a drive to get to my return flight to Canada. He gave me his name and phone number and said I could call upon him at any time if I needed help. Caistor to Dunswell 57.39 kms Time 3 hrs 49 mins Weather sunny mid 20's C. Some difficult hills.

South Shields 04 July 09 Part II

South Shields 04 July 09

Sorry it's taken me so long to getting around to updating my blog. I finally reached my final destination, South Shields, on Wednesday after leaving Hartlepool and stopping at Aunty Jean's and Uncle Ron's for lunch on the way.
Since leaving Ipswich on June 24th I cycled to Ely, Cambridgeshire and stayed at a lovely B&B managed by Mrs. A. Coupe. According to her she started the first B&B in Ely 35 years ago. They had a very lovely back garden, big enough to have a game of crocket. After securing my bike in the garage and taking my bags up to my room I sat out on the back patio enjoying a drink of coke and updating my journal. There were vines all up the side of the house as high as the roof. Several times I had to duck as a couple of Collared Doves kept buzzing me. The next day when I came down for breakfast I noticed the security light was hanging down much lower than the day before and that there was a nest with an egg in it that had been exposed. So that's what that ruckus was all about. Ispwich to Ely 108 kms in 5 hrs 52 mins. Weather sunny mid 20's C.
On Thursday, June 25th, I cycled from Ely to Boston. I stoppedin Wisbech for lunch and arrived in Boston at 4:00 PM. Very strong cross-head winds especially from oncoming lorrys which nearly ripped my helmet off on one occasion. After that I kept my head down when an uncoming lorry passed me. When I arrived in Boston at 4:00 PM the streets leading into the centre of town were blocked off and police were re-directing traffic. I explained to a policewoman that I was trying to get to the Tourist Information Centre so I could get information on B&Bs for the night. She said I could walk my bike over the round-about and across the bridge and the TIC was on the right. Once over the bridge there was no traffic and I saw a hotel about a 100 yards ahead so I went in and asked if they had a room for the night. They were fully booked. The manageress explained there had been a couple of bombs go off in the town protesting a military parade or something like that. She took me over to the TIC which was across the street but it was closed. She then told me about another hotel a few blocks away that might have a room for the night. I cycled there and again they were fully booked. They told me to go a little further down the road but I saw a hotel across the street/parking lot so decided to give it a try and was able to get a room at £60 which included b'fast for the night. It was getting late and because of the situation re bombs I decided to take the room for the night. After securing my bike in a back shed and taking my bags up to my room I went down to the bar for a beer. The manager/bartender said she had been called in on an emergency basis and had to come home and change before starting the night shift. I was left all alone in the bar and in the whole darn hotel I think. I must have sat there for about 1.5 hours before she returned. I was hoping no one came in and asked for a room or a drink. What would I do??? Eventually she returned and I ordered dinner. Spent a quiet night with the exception of the occasional emergency vehicle going by with its siren blasting away. Ely to Boston 94.36 kms Time 5 hrs 27 mins Weather sunny/windy mid 20's C.
On Friday, June 26th, I cycled from Boston to Caistor. At 4:00 AM before getting up I heard my mobile (cell phone) ring once. When I got up I checked to see what sort of message I had been sent. It was a message informing me that Michael Jackson had died at age 50 of a heart attack. After b'fast I collected my bike from the back shed, loaded my bags, and set off for Horncastle arriving at 11:00 AM. To early for lunch so I just had a snack and pushed on for Caistor. On the way I passed a chip wagon on the B1225. Pulled in and had a nice cheeseburger and coke before setting off for Caistor again. I suggested to the owner that she should have a picnic table to people could sit down and enjoy there food. She said if she had a table then she would have to provide toilets. Go figure!!! Arrived Caistor at 2:00 PM. No hotels listed in GPS. Cycled to local library to see if I could get info on accommodation. Itwas closed. Went a little further into town and stopped at a local convenience store. There someone was able to direct me to the White Hart pub who might have a room available. Once again I got lucky. They had a room above the pub with the biggest HDTV I had yet to come across in all the hotels I had stayed in. Mind you could still only get 4 TV stations. Met several people in the bar one who had been to Canada on a business trip and had not wanted to come back. I went up to bed at 10:30 PM. The bar was really doing a roaring business but fortunately by 11:30 the noise had all but died off and I was able to get a good night's sleep.