Follow Up - Europe 2011

Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Total distance cycled was 4,300 kms in 57 days.
Countries I travelled through were Canada, Holland, Belgium, Germany, France, Germany (again), Austria, Croatia, Serbia, Romania, Bulgaria, Turkey and Canada (again)
Number of flats = 2 plus one broken chain.
Problems with disc brakes again (same as on France/England trip)
Weight lost = 23 lbs. I went for a haircut and beard trim yesterday and the first thing my barber said was "You lost some weight". I gave him a $2 tip.

Ottawa Queensway Carleton Hospital Emergency Ward
I lay on my back with my bladder still draining until midnight. There must have been a change of staff as a new nurse came in to see if I was OK. I asked if I could lie on my side (I was starting to develop bed sores on my back) and she said OK. She also said the ER was quite busy so it would be awhile before a doctor arrived to see me.
Finally, at 2 AM, a young, female doctor arrived. She asked a bunch of questions. I told her about my cycling trip across Europe, the train rides, flight to Montreal from Istanbul and the car ride back to Ottawa. She couldn't say exactly what caused my bladder infection but it could have been the diarrhea that I had had earlier. She also said the large amount of urine I had retained in my bladder had caused my kidneys to become infected and that I would have to keep the catheter inserted for 2 weeks. In spite of the relief it was providing I was not to pleased about the prospect of having a catheter stuck up my pecker for 2 weeks!!! She gave me instructions to go see my family doctor, to make a follow up appointment with an urology specialist and a prescription for some anti-biotics, etc. A nurse came in and gave me instructions on how to swap over the night and day time collection bags and how to empty them. I was then allowed to go home. I put on my shorts and went out to admitting with my daytime bag strapped to my calf feeling somewhat embarrased. I called home and asked Lise to come and get me. Lise and Keith arrived at 3 AM and drove me home. I was finally able to lie down in my own bed at 4 AM after switching over to the night time bag.
Lise got up at 7:00 AM to go to her placement. I got up and switched over to the day time bag and had a shower. The tape holding the tube in place on my thigh came loose. I had some cereal and a banana for b'fast. I called Jim Cale and left a voice mail re not beeing able to cycle and that I had to cancel out of the Ontario-Quebec-NewYork long weekend tour. I called Barrie T. and updated him on my condition and situation. I said I would call him re going to the Old F.A.R.T.S. lunch on Wednesday. I managed to get through to Dr. Nadolny, my family doctor, and got an appointment for 11:20. I sorted through my panniers and did a full load of laundry.
Due to having had to stay up so late Keith had booked off sick for the day. I got him up at 10:00 and asked him to clean up the mess in the kitchen. I called Barrie Kirk (tour leader) and left a voice mail re my having to drop out of the ON-QC-NY tour due to a medical problem.
I drove to the doctors office and parked on a side street to avoid having to pay for parking lot fees. There was some discomfort walking to the office. I should have paid for parking!!! plus it looked like it was going to start raining any minute and I hadn't thought to bring along an umbrella. I saw Dr. Nadolny at 11:30. She gave me a requisition for blood and urine samples and said I should go in 1 week but then she changed her mind and said to go in 2 weeks time after the catheter had been removed. We talked for half an hour!!! She was very fascinated by my trip. I gave her my blog address. She looked it up right away on the laptop in the examination room. When I left the doctors office there were a lot of patients waiting to see her.
I had left my admitting papers from the QCH with the doctor but went back to get them as I thought I might need them for the specialist. I drove to the Merivale Mall to get my Rx filled at the pharmacy. While waiting I walked over to FarmBoy and bought some groceries. It was tipping down when I arrived but just a shower when I left.
The pharmacist explained my new meds and possible side effects, etc. He said I should drink lots of water. I asked if beer counted as water. He chuckled and said one or two wouldn't hurt.
I drove home at 1:00 PM. Made myself a nice sandwich on Italian bread with tomato, lettuce, garlic bologna, Monterey Jack cheese and mayo and washed it down with a diet green tea.
I called Dr. Pierre (specialist) and got a recording that he would be on holidays until August 8th. I went throught the pile of mail that had accummulated since my departure. I tried to check my e-mail but discovered there was a problem connecting to the Wi-Fi router. Neither Lise nor I could connect with our laptops or her Notebook. Only Keith could access the internet using his PC. I reset the router but only managed to screw up Keith's connection. I folded my laundry which I had put in the dryer earlier. Keith worked on the router and again was able to connect to Internet. I was able to "piggy-back" on an unprotected nearby Wi-Fi router and check my e-mail.
I called the QCH re specialist and having catheter removed. The nurse said she would have to check with her team leader and would call back. I called Dr. Nadolny's re latest developments. The receptionist said I should wait until the QCH call back.
Had rice and chicken curry (which Keith had prepared for my return) and Naan bread for dinner while catching up on the news.
I was pretty shattered by now and was off to bed at 7:30 PM (2:30 AM Istanbul time). Keith was also in bed early. The cats were locked up in the basement until they learn to use the litter boxes!!!

Cheers, Roly

Day 62 - Europe 2011

Day 62 - Monday, July 25, 2011 - Istanbul to Montreal (by plane) to Ottawa (by car)

I was up at 6:30 and ready to go to b'fast by 7:00. I had re-packed my bags the previous evening and they were ready to be taken downstairs. I went up to the 7th floor for b'fast. Same scenario. The seagulls were on the window ledge waiting to have b'fast. I suppose some tourists must feed them, hence the reason they keep coming back. I returned to my room and finished packing, took my bags down to the lobby and waited for the taxi driver to arrive. While waiting I brought my bike up to the lobby from the basement and fastened my rear trunk bag onto the rear rack. That would make one less bag to carry.
The hotel assistant manager, a young fellow about 30 years old, asked me about my trip. He was amazed at what I had accomplished and asked if he could have his picture taken with me and my bike. I agreed and he sent someone to get a camera. Meanwhile, I was getting all sweaty. It was pretty hot and humid inside the lobby of the hotel. The taxi arrived - a VW van. It was much cooler outside. After putting the back seat down we had no trouble getting my bike into the back along with my two rear panniers. We set off for the airport at 8 ish.
It was about a 30 minute ride to the airport in light traffic. I guess the morning rush hour had not quite started yet. It was bedlam at the arrivals ramp with taxis, buses, cars, etc all dropping off passengers and luggage. The taxi driver managed to find an opening and quickly reversed into it. We unloaded my bike and panniers and the driver took off. Apparently there are two airports in Istanbul and I still wasn't quite sure if I was at the right one. I loaded my panniers on my bike and went inside the terminal only to find out that all passengers had to pass through a metal detector and luggage through an x-ray machine before going to the departure area. I unloaded my panniers and put them on the conveyor belt along with my bike. My bike got stuck in the x-ray machine. It took 2 of us to get it free and pull it through. I then had to re-load my panniers on my bike and went off to look for the Air Transat counter. There was none!!!
While I was looking for Air Transat a Japanese lady approached me and my bike. She spoke excellent English. She wanted to know about my trip and asked for a photo. She was in the Foreign Service and was going off to a posting somewheres in the Middle East. I asked an airport employee for direction to the Air Transat counter. He directed me to the Information desk which was not far off. At the Information desk I was told that Air Transat flight to Montreal would be checking in at C 11. I went over to C 11 but there was no one there yet. It was only 9:00 AM and my flight didn't leave until 1:20 PM. I took the opportunity to go to the W/C and then found a coffee shop where I could sit down and watch for the arrival of the Air Transat ticket agents.
Around 10:00 I noticed some agents at C 11 but they were not wearing Air Transat uniforms. I went over and asked if they were checking in flight AT101 to Montreal. They were Turkish Airlines ticket agents and yes they were but were not yet ready. I asked if I could get a plastic bag in which to wrap up my bike. They gave me an oversize luggage bag. No charge.
I loosened my handle bars and turned them in towards the frame of the bike before re-fastening them. I deflated both front and rear tires. I had already removed my pedals the night before. I started putting the plastic bag on my bike at the rear like a pillow slip cover. It fit pretty snuggly. I had to lower my seat to get it past to the front wheel. The bag was to short by about a foot. I asked for another bag and one of the agents went off to get one for me. This time I started from the front and the agent helped me. I had brought a roll of packing tape with me and was able to tape the two bags together. My bike was ready to be put on the plane and shipped back to Canada.
By this time the check in counter had opened and there were a few people waiting to check in. I was told I could go to the "Club Class" check in counter because of my bike. The agent asked me to place my bike on the scales. It weighed 12 kgs. She then wasn't quite sure how much to charge me. She asked me how much I had paid to ship it over to Europe. I said Air Transat had charged me $30 from Toronto to Amsterdam and that it was the standard charge for shipping a bicycle as stipulated on their website. She asked to see my receipt but it was packed away in one of my rear panniers with all my other receipts. In the end she said there would be no charge for shipping my bike. Wow!!! Free bags and free shipping. Thank you Turkish Airlines staff.
After checking my bike and bags I went through pre-boarding security. I had two bottles of water with me and was told I either had to drink them or dump them. I chose to dump them. I found a food court and had an early lunch at the Asian Wok. I went to the departure lounge at Gate 214 but it was announced that AT101 would now be departing from Gate 304. I walked over to the Gate 304 lounge. Thank goodness there was a W/C nearby and a coke machine also selling water. I bought a bottle of water.
Finally, they started boarding passengers on a bus to go out to the aircraft. It was a very new and modern air-conditioned bus. There were several buses so there was no overcrowding. I was amazed. At 2:00 PM we were all boarded and still sitting on the tarmac. Our flight should have left at 1:20? The captain made an announcement that the delay had been caused due to the plane being over-fueled. They had to remove the excess fuel. We finally departed Istanbul at 2:30.
I was worried that it would be to cold on the plane and so I asked one of the stewardess if I could get a blanket. She said that they would be going around later to sell them for $7.00 including a mask, socks, ear plugs and headset. I told her I was having bladder problems and would be making frequent trips to the W/C just so they wouldn't get alarmed at my strange behaviour. I also asked if I could stand at the rear of the plane as I had a very sore back. She said it woudn't be a problem. She then proceeded to tell the whole rear cabin staff about my bladder problem. They were all quite concerned. A steward (former male nurse) offered me some Tylenol to help with the pain.
Thank goodness I had 2 seats to myself. I could get up and go the the W/C as often as I liked without disturbing anyone. I tried to rest. To much pain in my bladder and back. I had purchased a book in the departure lounge earlier and tried to do some reading. I tried to watch a movie but couln't find anything I liked. The others I had already seen. A meal was served which was typical airline food. I managed to eat it all and washed it down with a thimble full of Air Transat's finest red wine.
We arrived in Montreal at 5:30 PM. It was still Monday in Canada. It was announced that passengers going on to Toronto would have to change planes and that they should disembark at the rear of the plane while those getting off in Montreal should disembark at the front. There was a lot of grumbling about having to change planes. There was also a most annoying child who kept pressing the call button throughout the entire flight!!!
I cleared passport control and collected my panniers and my bike which all arrived OK. I then cleared customs. Barrie was waiting for me at arrivals. He took some photos with his new camera. I had loaded my panniers and my bike on a luggage cart. When we got to the elevators to go up to the 3rd deck, where Barrie had parked, there was a big jam up. We decided Barrie should go get the car and I would wait for him. He had to pay and go out and come back in. We had to take the front wheel off to get my bike to fit in the back of the VW Golf. Fortunately, Barrie didn't have to pay for any parking the 2nd time around.
It was now around 6:00 PM and Barrie was hungry so we stopped at a McDs. I just had some of his fries with ketchup and an ice cream cone that Barrie treated me to. We then set off for Ottawa - a two hour drive from Montreal. Rush hour was over so we had no trouble getting out of the city and onto the highway.
About half way home I decided I should go to Emergency as I was in such a great deal of pain. We had to stop twice so I could try and relieve myself. I found some Aleve tablets in the glove compartment and took two of those. I called home to let Lise and Keith know that Barrie was taking me to QCH Emergency and that he would then drop off my bike and bags and I would call again once I was ready to be picked up at the hospital. Barrie dropped me off at QCH around 8:45. I had to wait about an hour before seeing the admitting nurse. I told her my story. She made a note on my "chart" and said I should go directly to the desk in the ER. I was able to hand my chart over to an ER nurse and she started working on me right away. She checked my blood pressure, took some blood, scanned my bladder (it showed over 900 ml of fluid) and asked for a urine sample which I was glad to produce. The nurse then quickly sent the samples off to the lab for analysis. She then found an empty room where I was asked to strip and get into a hospital gown. Of coure I put it on backwards with the opening in the front. The nurse had me turn it around before getting up on the bed. She then inserted a catheter into my penis which was quite painful and proceeded to drain my bladder. Within minutes I had filled a large bag with over 12oo ml of urine. I was starting to feel some relief. The nurse had to go and get another bag. I was then made comfortable and told it would be a while before a doctor would come in to see me. It was now going on 11:00 PM or 6:00 AM Istanbul time. I had been up for 24 hours. I was feeling much better except for the discomfort of the catheter.

This blog was posted at home on Thursday, July 28, 2011

Day 61 - Europe 2011

Day 61 - Sunday, July 24, 2011 - Hotel Fahri, Instanbul

I got up at 6:00. Tried to check my e-mail but had trouble getting a connection. I updated my journal. I then went down to the lobby for b'fast and asked for the hotel password for the Hotel Fahri router. B'fast was on the 7th floor terrace. Quite a beautiful view of the harbour but spoiled by a couple of satellite dishes. Very sunny and bright. Lots of fresh fruit for b'fast plus cheeses, cold cuts, hard boiled eggs, etc I had fruit and tea for my b'fast. A couple seagulls, who were sitting on the open window ledge not 2 feet away from me, also wanted to join me for b'fast. I took some photos.
Went back to my room and lay down again for a couple of hours. I again tried getting on the Internet using the password that the hotel manager had given me. This time I was able to connect to the hotel router and had a much better connection. I typed up Day 59 & 60 blogs. I had another hours rest and then decided to go out for a walk to the water front but it was much to hot to be enjoyable. The temperature felt like it was 40C plus. I went back to the hotel and asked about transport to the airport. The manager said it would cost 45E or 100 TL. I also asked if I could pay by VISA. He wanted cash only. I went back to the train station, which was not to far off, and got another 200 TL and returned to hotel. I managed to get transport reduced to 80 TL and paid for both hotel and taxi which I booked for 8 AM Monday. I also remembered to ask for a receipt.
I went out for a short walk and and had a bite to eat. It was still very hot and it didn't take long for me to work up a sweat. I stopped at a restaurant in an alleyway which was partially covered with awnings and ordered a sort of paninni/pizza and tea. While waiting for my food to arrive, the restaurant manager, who was sitting outside in the alleyway chatting with his friends, was splattered by some seagull poop. One of the waiters brought out a glass of water so he could wash his arms where he got hit. The food was not so tasty or maybe it was just my appetite as I wasn't feeling all that great after my 23 hour train trip from Bucharest to Istanbul.
I returned to the hotel and had another rest. I again checked my e-mail and Facebook. I was able to chat with my sister, Mary Jean, in Oakville on FB. I went down to the lobby and got permission to go to the basement to remove the peddles on my bike. The hotel manager introduced me to the taxi driver who would be taking me to the airport. He has a nice VW van so transporting my bike wouldn't be a problem.
In the evening, when it had cooled down a bit, I went for a walk in the opposite direction. There were several interesting restaurants and shops selling all sorts of exotic Asian paraphernalia. I tried to do a walk around a square block but ended up in a dead end. I retraced my steps and stopped at a Turkish restaurant for dinner. I ordered Chicken Shishkebab, rice, tomato, cucumber, yogurt and tea. A couple sitting near me had ordered a special Turkish dish which came in a sealed clay pot that looked like an urn. The pot came out of the kitchen on a tray with flames all around it. It was placed on a table which had been set up on the street in front of the restaurant patio. A chef who had been standing around doing absolutely nothing since I had arrived then took over. He put on a pair of heavy duty gloves and wrapped a towel around the bottom of the clay urn. He had a heavy metal rod such as used for sharpening knives and I realized he was going to lop the top of the urn off with it. I had my camera ready as did the couple who had ordered the meal. It was quite a show. I took several shots and was able to get the actual top flying off and some of the contents spraying about. The chef then flipped the clay pot over dumping the contents onto a platter and it was served to the customers. I have no idea what this special meal was called.
I returned to the hotel and after doing some research on the Internet had an early night.

Day 60 - Europe 2011

Day 60 - Saturday, July 23, 2011 - Bucharest to Istanbul by overnight train

I had paid for a private sleeper. It had tripple bunk beds (2 were made up). When we arrived at the Turkish border crossing I waited in my cabin for the Passport/Customs people to come on board and check my passport, etc. like they had done at all the other borders. There was a knock on my door. It was the conductor. He told me I had to get off and go to Passport Control. It was 4 AM. I went out and got in line with about 50 other kids all in there 20s. I was the only "senior citizen". It was quite windy and bitterly cold standing out on the platform waiting to go into the Passport Control office. I was freezing!!! I had to go back and get a jacket. After standing in line for what seemed like an eternity I handed over my passport only to be told I needed a Visa!!! I had to go to the far end of the terminal to the Visa office which I had trouble finding. There was a very little sign hidden behind a pillar. I paid 45 E for 3 Visa stamps (like letter stamps). I returned to the Passport guy and he stamped my passport. I got back on the train in a hurry and waited some more. About 1/2 an hour later the Passport/Customs officers came on board and checked our luggage and passports. My ticket said that we would be arriving in Istanbul at 8:55 AM. At 8:30 I started getting ready. Eventually we arrived in Istanbul at 11:00 - 2 hours late. I was surprised to see that it was a much smaller and quieter station than Bucharest which was a good thing from my point of view. I got my bike and bags off the train with some help from the conductor. It was quite hot. I took my sleeves and leg warmers off and loaded my panniers on my bike in a shaded area. I went over to talk to the Alaska guys. They were still assembling their bikes in the hot sun. They were staying at a Pension 5-6 kms from the station and offered to take me there. I said I couldn't ride my bike because of the rear wheel rim being cracked. We said goodbye, etc. I found what I thought was an ATM, stuck my debit card in the slot and nothing happened. It turned out to be a ticket machine. DUH! I found an ATM and was able to get 200 Turkish Lira. As I was leaving the station I saw an Information Office. I went over but it was difficult getting over the curbs and around parked cars. It was closed. Gone to lunch. Back at 12:45. I spotted a Burger King across the street so went over and had some lunch while waiting for the I.O. to re-open. There were a couple people ahead of me when I returned. A very pretty, yound blond, in a full black leather motorcycling outfit ahead of me asked about hotels. She was told there were many hotels to choose from behind the train station and along some street which I didn't quite catch the name of. She was also told that the I.O. was not in the business of recommending hotels or keeping a list as there were to many of them. My questions had been answered. I went off to look for a hotel. Geez it was bloody hot and crowded. Thousands of "tourists". I found the hotels behind the train station. There were dozens to choose from including a Best Western. I asked about a single room for 2 nights but they only had a room for Saturday at 90 E. I checked several other hotels but they were fully booked. At the last hotel I checked the desk clerk said he knew of a hotel not far off that had rooms available. I asked if he could call and reserve a room for me which he did. He then had one of the staff take me there. It was a nice hotel at 45 E/night for a single room with b'fast, A/C and Wi-Fi. I checked in for 2 nights. After removing my panniers, a young lad took it downstairs to secure it. I took the elevator up to the 1st floor with my bags. Decided to have a shower before lying down for a nap. The water pressure started off OK but by the time I had gotten all lathered up with soap it was down to a mere trickle. Reminded me of a trip to Pakistan a long time ago but that's another story. I got up at 6:30 and went out to a pharmacy to get something to relieve my constipation. I was told to see a doctor about my bladder infection. I also bought some water and some fruit and went back to my room. I took 1 of the constipation tablets and about an hour later was able to get some relief. I took another tablet before going to bed at 8:00 PM. I managed to get some rest.

This blog was posted at the Hotel Fahri in Istanbul on Sunday, July 24, 2011

Day 59 - Europe 2011

Day 59 - Friday, July 22, 2011 - Bucharest to Instanbul via Sofia, Bulgaria

I had a terrible night due to a bladder infection? Terrible pain when I try to urinate. I went down for b'fast at 7:30. I asked for cafe au lait and a ham omelette. I got expresso, an omelette, ham, feta cheese, tomato, bread and butter. I made myself a couple egg and ham sandwiches. I checked out at 8:30. Went for a short ride around the block but ended up having to walk my bike back to the train station due to a one way street. I was able to exchange 151 LEI for 35 E. I bought a 1.5L bottle of water for 4 LEI. I also bought 2 BigMacs for the trip (18 LEI). The board finally announced that the train for Istanbul would be departing from Track 3. I made my way over there at around 11:00. There were not many people waiting in spite of there being a train there with sleeping cars. I checked every car but couldn't figure out which one I should be on. I asked a signalman if this was the train for Istanbul and he said I should go check with Information. Nobody got on the train and it left. I sat down and waited. Finally the train arrived at 11:45. There were many more people waiting to get on now. I showed my tickets to a conductor and he indicated I should get on Car # 2. As I was about to get on the train another conductor came along and said I was not allowed to bring my bike on board. He was the conductor for the 1st class car the other guy was the conductor for the 2nd class car. I showed him my tickets for a private sleeping cabin and a 50 LEI note. He said that was not enough as he had to pay several other people. I said I would add more and he allowed me to get on with my bike. Big sigh of relief!!! As I was waiting for the train to arrive 3 other cyclists arrived (2 girls and a guy). The guy came over and introduced himself and said they were from Alaska and had been touring around Romania. He was curious about the arrangements for my bike. I said I was told I had to talk to the conductor which is the same information that he got. They were travelling 2nd class and had bought an extra ticket for their bikes which is what they had done for the trip from Istanbul to Romania. The only snag was that when the Passport Control people came on the train they expected 4 people instead of just 3. There was a lot of explaining to do about the extra seat for the bicycles. I had no trouble getting my bike on board and in my cabin once I removed my 2 rear panniers. I hung my bike on the ladder using the handle bars. The ladder was hanging on 2 sturdy coat hooks. When the conductor returned for my ticket he saw that I had added another 4 x 10 LEI notes. He was satisfied and kept my tickets. I asked if I could have them back. He said he would return them at the end of the journey. We left for Istanbul at 12:13 right on schedule. It was a very long ride. A lot of stops i.e. customs/passport control leaving Romania, entering and leaving Bulgaria and entering Turkey. There were also several stops in between including a 2 hour stop in Dubrovnik. Don't ask me why???

Day 58 - Europe 2011

Day 58 - Thursday, July 21, 2011 - Constanta to Bucharest, Romania by train

I was awake at 6:00 but managed to have a lie in until 7:00. After a quick shower I had some yogurt with cereal and a Nestea mango/pineapple drink and a banana which I had bought at a grocery store last night. While sorting my things for packing I put my cell phone on charge. I went out to the grocery store across the street for water, Fanta and 2 apples for the train ride (3 hours) to Bucharest. There had been quite a thunderstorm during the night and the skies were still very overcast. The lady at the cash was much more pleasant. She even helped me put my purchases in my bag and waited patiently while I got my small change out. I returned to my room, finished packing, checked out, quickly loaded my bags on my bike and headed for the train station which was about 2 kms away. While waiting for the last semaphore (traffic light) to change it started raining. I managed to get inside before it really started tipping down. There were a lot of people milling about the train station, waiting for trains, etc. Thankfully there was no line up at the ticket counters. I paid 53.20 LEI for my ticket to Bucharest departure at 12:00 noon and arriving at 14:39. I found a place to sit while waiting. At 11:30 I went up to Platform 1 and waited, along with a couple hundred other passengers, for the train to Bucharest. It was a bit of a struggle getting up the ramp next to the stairs with my bike but I managed. It was still raining lightly so every one was huddled under the canopy. The train arrived at 11:45 and there was a mad rush by everyone to get on. No baggage car. I was barely able to squeeze my bike on through the narrow door and up the 4 steps to get on the train. A young teenager, who was already on board, helped drag my bike up the steps. Not much room to manoeuvre my bike once I got inside the car. I had to remove my panniers and put the front wheel up on a seat temporarily to get it out of the way in order for the other passengers to get by. Noboby panicked!!! The train left at 12:01. A purser/conductor went by and didn't bat an eye. Same for the 2 policmen who went by. I guess if you can get it on the train and your not blocking the passage it's OK. One guy, with an oversize suitcase, was asked to tuck it in. Very nice new train and moving along at a fairly RAPID pace. I clocked it doing 138 kph with my GPS. The purser(s) came by, checked my ticket and asked for an additional 13 LEI for my bike. One collected the money while the other made out a receipt. I paid and got a receipt. There were also 230V 50Hz outlets in case you wanted to plug in your laptop or charge up your cell phone. There were several stops at various stations on the way and the train slowed down to 40-50 kph for bridges and some areas of the track that were being improved. I got my bike and bags ready to be the 1st one to get off on arrival. I managed to get my bike off OK but when I went to get back on to get my panniers I had to wait for several people to get off. A guy then handed them to me. Once I loaded my panniers back on my bike I went directly to the Information wicket to enquire about the train to Istanbul. I was told to go to International #1 wicket. I asked again and was told there was a train every day at 12:13. It cost 220 LEI for a "couchette" (6 people) or 330 LEI for a single sleeper and that there was no baggage car for bicycles. I would have to talk to the conductor about getting my bike on the train. Yikes!!! I wasn't to thrilled to hear that. I went away to think about this latest snag in my plans to get home. As I was leaving the train station I saw 2 hotels. I was just locking up my bike to go in the Andy Hotel to ask about a room when the receptionist, a 50 ish year old man, came out and asked me if I was looking for a room. I said I was and he started helping take my bike inside a sort of alleyway to secure it. I stopped him and asked him how much it was for a single room. It was 35 E with b'fast, A/C and Wi-Fi. After securing my bike I checked in. The receptionist also spoke French. It's an OK 2-3 star hotel and not far from the train station. I took my bags up to my room on the 1st floor using the elevator. It was OK. I had to go back down to get the remote for the A/C. I rinsed out my Canada jersey cause I think I'm going to be needing it tomorrow. I lay down for a nap but was to worried about getting my bike on the train to get any sleep. I checked out the Wi-Fi and was able to get a connection in my room. I typed up Day 57 of my blog before going out for a walk. It was very windy. I passed by several fast food stands but it was to windy to sit out and eat and also to much traffic. I went into the train station mall and found a KFC and had dinner there. It was very busy. I went back to the International wicket and bought a 1st class ticket for Istanbul. New lady at the wicket sounded a bit more positive about getting my bike on the train, especially since I have a private sleeper. I still have to get it past the purser/conductor though. Oh and by the way the price turned out to actually be 331.10 LEI plus 260.08 LEI. I think it must be basic fare plus private sleeper. I used my VISA to pay. I wanted to get rid of some of my LEI but she wouldn't split the bill. It had to be one or the other. I returned to the hotel and had a beer in the bar before going up to my room. I got an e-mail, with photos, from the Dutch cycling couple I met in Austria. they cycled 1,600 kms from Holland to Vienna then took the train back home. Well I'm off to bed. It's going to be one hell of a long day tomorrow. The train leaves at 12:13 (afternoon) and arrives in Istanbul the following morning at 08:55. Approximately 21 hours of travel time.

This blog was posted at the Andy Hotel in Bucharest, Romania on Thursday, July 21, 2011

Day 57 - Europe 2011

Day 57 - Wednesday, July 20, 2011 - Calarasi to Constanta by Micro-Bus
Trip 140 kms Time 2:30

I got up at 6:00 and went down for b'fast at 6:30. Ordered tea, ham, cheese, eggs (easy over), toast and cucumber (it was choice #1). The eggs arrived sunny side up! B'fast was served out on the terrace with the mosquitoes and flies all buzzing about. I ate in a hurry. When I checked out I paid an extra 3.50 LEI for a beer from the mini-bar. I asked for directions to the train station. They were a bit vague. I loaded my panniers on my bike in the hotel lobby and proceeded to leave only to find that the marble ramp outside was beeing swabbed down by a cleaning lady. I had to carefully manoeuvre my fully loaded bike down the ramp as gently as possible. I was able to make it OK with the help of the cleaning lady hanging on to the rear of my bike rack.
The train station (Gare) wasn't to far off. I went into the main departure hall which was quite huge and had several ticket windows. There was no one about except a cleaning lady mopping the marble floor. I asked where to get a ticket for Constanta. She indicated towards wicket #3. I went over and eventually a lady showed up. The next train for Constanta was at 14:15. I decided to see if I could get on a bus as I didn't want to wait around for 6 hours.
I had seen an AUTOTOUR terminal just opposite the train station with a couple of buses in the parking bays. I went over and asked about a bus to Constanta. They suggested I try HORIZON (ORIZON) but couldn't tell me how to get there. I went over to the taxi stand and a taxi driver who spoke some English offered to show me the way for 8 LEI. We went about a block when he suddenly stopped, got out of his taxi and wanted to stuff my bike into the trunk. Of course it wouldn't go in with the panniers on. I had to convince him to let me take both rear panniers off first and then it would fit.
It was several kms to Orizon. The driver of the 15 passenger micro bus was a bit reluctant to take me and my bike to Constanta but in the end the taxi driver managed to convince him. We were able to load my bike in the back between the seats standing it on the handlebars and seat. I agreed to pay 2 fares i.e. 2 x 27 LEI for the 140 kms 2 hour trip to Constanta. We set off at 8:30. The bus was fully loaded including 2 standing passengers who got off about half way. The van was airconditioned and of course I had the seat at the very back under the A/C unit that leaked condensation on my right shoulder! It was especially bad when we went into a right curve or turn. I took the seat head rest cover off and covered my shoulder with it.
We arrived in Constanta at 10:40. The bus depot was "total grid lock". Buses of all sizes and description. I got my bags loaded on my bike and headed for the train station which was just around the corner. It was a fully functional station. Even had an information wicket. I was informed the next train to Bucharest was at 12:00 noon then another at 14:00 and it cost 53 LEI. I decided after coming this far that I should at least go and see the Black Sea.
As I was leaving the train station a very friendly taxi driver, who spoke English, approached me and asked about the strange thing on my helmet (rear view mirror). He gave me directions on how to get to the Sea. It was a few kms straight ahead on a busy main street. I found a restaurant by the sea side with a nice view of the Black Sea and the beach below. It was 11:30 and there were several people actually eating lunch and not just having drinks. I sat out on the terrace and ordered a nice pizza. I decided to find a hotel and spend the night in Constanta. I checked in to the Hotel Class a 3-star effort with Wi-Fi and A/C and b'fast for 200 LEI. I was able to get a room for 150 LEI without b'fast. I was also able to bring my bike into the hotel and secure it in a room next to the reception.
I took my bags up to my room on the 3rd floor using the elevator. I couldn't get the A/C to turn on. The receptionist sent a maid to my room who fist of all switched it to "heat" and waited until it cut out then switched it over to A/C. Who knew? Wi-Fi didn't work in the room so I went down to the lobby where I was able to get connected to the router but couldn't load any web sites in IE. After a couple re-boots including one for the router I gave up. By this time I needed a beer and there was no one in the bar downstairs to serve me. I asked the receiptionists where I could get a beer and she suggested CHAMPS just down the street where they also had free Wi-Fi.
I walked over to Champs and had a couple of draught beers while checking my e-mail and typing up Day 56 of my blog. Paid 13 LEI + 1 LEI tip for 2 large Carlsberg beers. I walked back to the hotel. It occured to me that the hotel network might be on Firefox and I remember having a similar problem back in Austria with IE and Firefox.
At 7:30 I went out to get something for dinner, some cash and some food for b'fast. I found a McDs and had dinner there. In the 1st grocery store I went into I was upset by the rudeness of the shopkeeper while I was choosing a couple of bananas. I just turned around and left. The 2nd shop was a little better but the cashier was kinda rude by throwing my change on the counter, etc.
When I got back to the hotel there was a party going on in the bar downstairs with a guy at the mic bellowing out Romanian tunes. The bar is down in the basement and I'm up on the 3rd floor so it's mostly just a dull thumping at the moment. While I was out shopping I noticed there were a lot of people walking about and in the various restaurants. There were also a lot of stray dogs. I counted 8 on the short 3 block walk back to the hotel. They are mostly passive but ....
The noise from the bar went on and on until well past midnight. It would come in waves getting progressively lounder then quitet again. By 10:00 my head was buzzing. I thought about complaining but somehow I knew it wouldn't do any good.

This blog was posted at the Hotel Andy in Bucharest, Romania, on Thursday, July 21, 2011

Day 56 - Europe 2011

Day 56 - Tuesday, July 19, 2011 - Oltenita to Calarasi, Romania - Trip 73.76 kms Time 4:14:54

I was up quite early at 6:00. The manager and a few other "guests" were also up. I had a yogurt with cereal, a croissant (in a package), a Nestea with Limon that I had bought yesterday and a hard boiled egg that I had saved from an earlier b'fast. I packed my bags and went to the "office" to pay. Everyone else had left except for a housekeeper who was doing some ironing in the office. She took my 50 LEI and gave me a receipt. I carried my panniers down the very steep stairs and got my bike out from under the stairs with help from Madame. I had to pump up my rear tire again. I also pumped up the front one. I bought a 1.5L bottle of water and set off for Calarasi at 7:30. It was a paved road in good condition all the way. Just a couple of minor climbs and very busy. I kept hearing a rubbing sound coming from the rear. I stopped and couldn't find anything that would be causing a rubbing sound. I noticed my rear rim crack was looking much worse and the spoke had come a bit looser. I wrapped some black electrical tape around my tire and rim and spoke. That stopped the rubbing noise but now I had a thump-thump because of the tape. It started getting quite hot and so I had to slow down. I made a couple of stops for cold drinks one at a gas station where they had fresh sandwiches, a 1st for Romania. I arrived in Calarasi at 1:00. I checked in at the Hotel Calarasi at 150 LEI including b'fast, A/C (not working very well) and Wi-Fi in the lobby. I was able to secure my bike in the hotel conference room. Later the receptionist informed me she had to move it as the room was needed so my bike ended up in the lobby in a remote corner. Took my bags up to my room in another one of those scary elevators and after a quick shower lay down for a nap. I was able to connect to the Internet, check my e-mail, etc. I updated Day 55 of my blog after doing some laundry. I complained to the receptionist about the A/C. She went up to check it as there was no one else. Meanwhile I went out for to a pizza? place for dinner at 8:00. There was no one else eating! just drinks! I ordered a snitzel. That's all I got and a draught beer and some bread for 11 LEI. I walked back to the hotel and went to the hotel cafe for cake and ice cream (8 LEI). They had a really fantastic looking selection of pastries. I updated my journal. Then it was off to bed at 9:30. I couldn't sleep because of the noise from the A/C. I got up and turned it off and opened the window. The racket was much worse now and was coming from the A/C condensation dripping on the tin roof below. Before going up to my room the receptionist said she couldn't fix the A/C and offered to move me to a different room or I could have a fan. I took the floor fan. With the window open and the fan going full tilt I was able to get through the night.

This blog was posted at Champs Bar in Constanta, Romania, on Wednesday, July 20, 2011

Day 55 - Europe 2011

Day 55 - Monday, July 18, 2011 - Giurgiu to Oltenita, Romania - Trip 85.41 kms Time 4:52:29

I managed to get through the night without any more bouts of diarrhea. I got up at 6:15. There was hot water (thank goodness) and plenty of water pressure for my shower. I did some packing before going down to b'fast. Once again, no one else but myself in the restaurant. I ordered juice, tea, omelette, toast, butter and honey. There were about a dozen different menus to choose from, 3 specifically for Chinese. Very weird. I went back up to my room and finished packing. Carried my panniers to the elevator and went down to the lobby. I paid 185 LEI for room.
My bike survived the storm although it was leaning to one side a bit. I asked for directions to Oltenita but the receptionist wasn't able to help and the directions I got from 2 other guys, who happened to be in the lobby. were very vague. After loading my panniers and stopping at a nearby shop for water I headed for the main road I had come in on. I stopped at a taxi stand just before the main road and was told to turn right and keep going straight ahead. It turned out to be 11 kms before I saw the turn for Oltenita. After that the road became a bit hilly with 8 climbs before I reached Oltenita at 1:00 PM. The heat and humidity was very exhausting.
While I was looking for a hotel I saw a young girl, about 14 years old, get hit by a speeding motorists at a crosswalk in a very busy part of town. He must have been doing 70-80 kph in a 30 kph zone. He really hit the brakes but wasn't able to stop in time to avoid hitting her. It didn't take long for a large crowd to gather and an ambulance and the police to arrive. I did see her sit up on her own so I don't think she was critically injured but I'm sure she will have a broken bone or two as there was a horrible thump and she wen't flying about 2 metres just like a rag doll. My stomach started feeling funny again.
I rode around town for 1/2 hour or so looking for hotels but it seems there are only 2 hotels in Oltenita. One was above a bank and didn't even have a sign. When I asked about a room I was told it was completely reserved by a company. The other hotel was a 1 star affair called Hotel Cezare just a block or so away. I tried the door but it was locked. A young lady minding a cellphone shop next door rang the hotel manager and said he would be around in 5 minutes. I went to a nearby shop to get a cold drink and as I was returning I met up with him. The rooms were 2 flights up a set of very steep stairs. The manager, after securing my bike under the stairs, helped me carry my panniers up to my room. There were 3 single beds, a TV, a fridge, a fan, a table and chairs in the room. W/C and shower were down the hall. I asked about Internet and the manager got up on a stool and plugged in the Wi-Fi router. The price was 50 LEI without b'fast. Since there were no other hotels available I checked in at 2:30.
I lay down for a nap and later went out to get a bite to eat and a beer. I bought some groceries for b'fast and returned to my room.
I checked the guide for tomorrow's ride to Calarasi (which appeared to be not to difficult) and the following day to Constanta. The final stretch is 134 kms form Calarasi to Constanta and it sounds really tough with several hills, cobblestones, etc. I just hope my rear wheel holds out!

This blog was posted at the Hotel Calarasi in Calarasi, Romania on Tuesday, July 19, 2011

Day 54 - Europe 2011

Day 54 - Sunday, July 17, 2011 - Zimniciea to Giurgiu, Romania - Trip 64.77 kms Time 4:18:16

I was up several times during the night because of an upset stomach. I took 2 more Imodium tablets at 4:40 AM. Got up at 6:30. Couldn't get any hot water so ended up having a rather cold shower. I went over to the hotel cafe for b'fast but was told b'fast was in the restaurant above. There is no inter-connecting passage between the hotel/cafe/restaurant. I was able to order a hard boiled egg, tea, bread, butter, jam and honey. I ended up getting 3 hard boild eggs! etc. I was the only customer.
I returned to my room, collected my panniers, which I had already packed and checked out. Before setting off for the day I checked my rear tire and it was a bit soft. I guess I do have a slow leak. I pumped it up and set of for Giurgiu. The day was a bit overcast when I started and I thought I might get some relief from the hot sun but that didn't last very long. By 9:00 the temperature was well up in the 30s. The road was in really bad shape which made the cycling a lot harder and slower. Not much to see. Just the usual fields of corn, wheat and sunflowers that were looking a bit droopy and desperately in need of some rain. There were a lot of watermelon stands at the side of the road. I wish I could buy one but what would I do with a big honking watermelon. I passed through many small villages and only had one hill to climb on the way. I arrived in Giurgiu at 11:30 and went directly to Hotel Sud which was the only hotel I saw ads for. It was a nice 3 star hotel with a large super market next to it. It was 45E for a single room with double beds, incl. b'fast, Wi-Fi and A/C. There was no garage to secure my bike so I had to settle for locking it up outside. The receptionist assured me it would be safe as they had surveillance cameras. I took my bags up to my room, had a cold shower (no hot water again and no water pressure) and lay down for a nap. I got up at 4:30 and went to the supermarket for some groceries. I bought some mashed potatoes and a BBQ chicken leg/thigh for dinner. I returned to my toom and did some laundry. There was a big thunderstorm at 6:30. It blew the window open. I managed to eat dinner OK. It was quite tasty and only cost 3.99 LEI. I typed up Day 53 of my blog. My tummy is starting to feel much better but just to be sure I took 2 more Imodium before going off to bed at 9:00.

This blog was posted at the Hotel Cezare in Oltenita, Romania on Monday, July 18, 2011

Day 53 - Europe 2011

Day 53 - Saturday, July 16, 2011 - Turnu Magurele to Zimnicea - Trip 60.76 kms Time 3:54:46

Had a bit of a rough night because of stomach cramps. The inevitable has happened - I've managed to get some sort of tummy bug. Got at 6:30 and took a couple Imodium anti-diarrhea tablets. I went down for b'fast hoping to get something to eat that my stomach could handle. I asked for tea with honey and yogurt. I also got a stale bun and some jam.
I returned to my room and finished packing. After checking out I collected my bike from the garage at the back of the hotel. While I was loading my panniers a German fellow cyclists, about my age, approached me and greeted me in German. He noticed I was from Canada as I was wearing my CANADA jersey. He was cycling towards Budapest, etc. Before setting off for Zimnicea I went to a nearby corner store and got a 1.5L bottle of water, a couple bananas and some yogurt. I set off at 8:30. It was a fairly flat ride with several rolling hills so I was able to ride at a fairly good pace. There were a lot of donkey/horse wagons on the road. Some loaded with hay that took up more than a whole lane. One was missing a rear wheel. It was running on the rear axle stub with the missing wheel in the wagon. Probably going to a shop to get it fixed. I passed through Ciuperceni, Traian, Seaca, Lisa, Piatra, Viisoara, Suhaia and Fajtanele before arriving in Zimnicea at 1:30. By this time the heat and the fact that I wasn't feeling well had pretty well exhausted me.
I stopped at the Hotel Inter, a very impressive looking, modern building. I went into the cafe and was able to get some tea, water and honey dew melon and some sort of pastry (very dry). How do they eat that stuff. Apparently I wasn't supposed to be able to get melon as it wasn't on the menu or on display in the cafe like all the other food. There must have been a special occasion and I happened to see a waitress taking some left over melon to the kitchen. I asked if I could have some and she said OK. Another waitress told her I shouldn't have any but she was overuled.
I decided it was much to hot to continue cycling to the next town which was Giurgiu that would have hotel accommodation. I went to the hotel reception to ask about a room. A single room with b'fast, Wi-Fi and A/C was 60E. I managed to get it down to 50E. The beautiful, platinum blond, receptionist got a baggage cart and helped me collect my bags. She took them inside while I went off with the parking lot attendant to secure my bike in a garage at the back of the hotel. I took my bags up to my room and lay down for a nap after taking a couple more diarrhea tablets.
When I got up I decided I couldn't face going out to eat in a restaurant so decided to find a shop where I could buy some food and water. I asked the pretty receptionist for directions to the nearest shop and she was about to take me there but I said that wouldn't be necessary as I would manage to find it on my own.
On the way I passed a bicycle shop. I went in to see if I could get a spare tube. Not a chance. He had several types of tubes but none that would fit my rims or tires. But I was able to get a small patch kit for 6 LEI. The bike shop guy spoke English and when I told him about getting my tube fixed at a VULCANIZER garage because my little tube of vulcanizing fluid had dried up he gave me a large tube of it for free. I said I had some in the patch kit I had just bought. He insisted I take it just in case it dried out.
I eventually found the "grocery shop". Went in and bought some water, fruit, yogurt, etc and walked back to the hotel. It was bloody hot. Romania is having quite a heat wave at the moment.

This blog was posted at the Hotel SUD in Giurgiu, Romania, on Sunday, July 17, 2011
We just had a terrific thunderstorm. I hope that will cool things off a bit for tomorrow's ride which has several hills on it.

Drum Bun

Day 52 - Europe 2011

Day 52 - Friday, July 15, 2011 - Caracal to Turnu Magurele - Trip 76.56 kms Time 4:48:44

I was up at 6:30 and just about ready to go down for b'fast at 7:00 when there was a knock on my door. It was Sofia bringing my b'fast on a tray i.e. orange juice, coffee (very strong), assorted cold cuts and cheese, a hard boiled egg already peeled, tomatoes and cucumbers, bread, butter and jam and a packaged croissant. I couldn't eat it all.
I checked my e-mail and sent a reply to Barrie. I started packing my panniers, which I had put on the carpeted floor next to the A/C, and discovered one of them was quite wet. Well the rain cover was wet. My clothes, etc were all in Ziploc bags so they were OK. When I went down to check out I told the receptionist about the leaky A/C. She came up to my room to see.
There were VISA, etc stickers at the reception but when I tried to pay by VISA they would only accept cash. I asked for directions to Corabia. It was fairly complicated so the manageress sent Sofia to show me the way. Sofia spoke fairly good English and walked with me for about 400 M before indicating that I was to follow this road to Corabia. I thanked her and set off for C.
I noticed my rear tire felt a little soft so I had to stop and pump it up hoping I didn't have a slow leak. I also stopped at a corner store and bought a 1.5L bottle of water. The road was well paved and flat all the way to C. Not much to see - just the usual farm fields of mainly wheat, corn and sun flowers. Very little traffic.
I arrived in Corabia at 11:00 and was feeling quite hungry and in need of a cold drink. After looking around for awhile for a place to eat I asked a young lady if she knew of a restaurant where I could get some lunch. She spoke very good English and tried to give me directions to a nearby restaurant but it was a bit complicated because of roadworks so she decided to show me the way. When we got to the restaurant she spoke to the waiter and told him I was from Canada and wanted something to eat. The waiter brought me a menu. I chose a vegetable soup with bread and a Nestea. The waiter went off to the kitchen to place my order but was soon back. Sorry, no soup for you! No not really - he wasn't the Soup Nazi. He suggested that I should order the Cheeseburger. I decided to take a chance and try it. It actually wasn't to bad. It was a large bun stuffed with a patty of meat, fries, cole slaw, mayo and ketchup.
Since it was still early (noon) and I had only cycled 40 kms I asked for directions to Turnu Magurele. On the way to T-M my pace was much slower because of the heat. Along the way I was passed by a large commercial van and was hit on my back left shoulder by an object thrown from the passenger window! I'm pretty sure it was an empty plastic bottle. It scared the hell out of me. It didn't leave a mark but it sure pissed me off!!! After cycling over 4000 kms to have something thrown at me was unbelievable especially since most people in Romania had been so kind to me.
I arrived in T-M at 2:00 after cycling 76 kms and since it was so very hot and there were no other towns with hotels for quite a distance I decided to stop for the day. I found the Hotel Turris - a fairly large 3 star hotel. A room with b'fast and Wi-Fi and A/C was 180 LEI. I bargained her down to 160 LEI. After securing my bike in the garage I took my apnniers up to my room on the 2nd floor. Had a short nap and afterwards typed Day 49 and 50 of my blog. I then did some laundry and had a large tin of Carlsberg (5 LEI) from the mini bar. (a coke was more expensive at 5.50 LEI).
Later on in the evening when it had cooled down a bit I went out for a walk about/ Took some photos. I couldn't find any restaurants so came back to the hotel for dinner. I sat out on the patio and a mangy dog came and settled down by my chair. Why me? I had to chase it away as they are full of fleas!!! I ordered "chicken chest" with apple sauce and a coke. The "apple sauce" looked revolting but actually didn't taste to bad. It also came with two bread rolls which were a bit on the stale side. It cost 9.50 LEI for dinner.
It was to hot to sit outside and there were mosquitoes buzzing about so I went back up to my room and typed up Day 51 of my blog.

This blog was posted at the Hotel Inter in Zimnicea, Romania, on Saturday, July 16, 2011

Day 51 - Europe 2011

Day 51 - Thursday, July 14, 2011 - Calafat to Craiova to Caracal, Romania, by Train
Trip 166.4 kms Time 4:39:18 Max 75.38 kph

I managed to sleep in! got up at 6:40 and went down for b'fast at 7:10. I forgot to mention in yesterday's blog that the decor in this restaurant was something like out of "Alice In Wonderland" The tables and chairs were all covered in white and topped off with red bunting. It was quite a huge restaurant that could accommodate several hundred people. There were about 6-8 people in the restaurant for coffee, etc. I ordered tea. It came with a tin of paté, two bits of cheese, a slice of cucumber, bread, butter (1 pat) and jam (1). A British lady, who looked a bit dishevelled, was wandering around looking for a toaster! I didn't dare order anything extra!
I went back to my room and finished packing my panniers and took them down to the lobby. I had to use the scary elevator twice. Even though my room was on the "1st floor" there were 3 or 4 flights of stairs between it and the main floor. After getting my bike out of the storage room and loading my panniers I asked for directions to the train station. I had previously checked the Danube guide book for my next destination and there was a "Tip: Calafat is the last town with half-way acceptable overnight accommodations until you come to Corabia about 170 kms away." Since I dont have any camping equipment and the scenery is fairly monotonous along that stretch the guide book recommended taking the train from Calafat - Craiova- Corabia (about 3 hours). There was also another suggestion but that one was 6 hours by train.
I arrived at the train station at 8:45 after stopping to buy a 1.5L bottle of water. There was absolutely no one around. I took my bike inside the station and went over to what appeared to be a ticket counter. A lady, who spoke no English, was able to sell me a ticket for Calafat - Craiova - Caracal for 31.80 LEI. The next train didn't leave until noon. Oh good! 3 hours to kill! I'm not sure if I have to change trains in Craiova? According to my ticket I should arrive in Caracal at 16:53. I went out and sat on the platform where there were a few employees and a couple of mangy dogs to keep me company.
Before boarding the train I bought a 1L bottle of Fanta at the BUFET. An engineer and his assistant (breakman I think) arrived and fired up the diesel and went up and back to swith the engine to the opposite end of the cars that were on track #2. It was a bit of a hurdle getting down off the main platform and across the tracks and up on to platform #2 but I managed. I then had to manhandle my bike with it's panniers onto the antiquated train itself. I did get a little help.
The train left for Craiova at 12:00. It was a very slow train. It stopped at every village and a few other places where there was just a shack beside the tracks. I arrived in Craiova at 15:45 a much busier station than Calafat. There was an "Express" train about to leave for Caracal on track #1. The conductor montioned for me to hurry and I would be able to get on it rather than wait for the next train. Once again I had to cross two sets of tracks and manhandle my bike onto the train, a much more modern train equiped with A/C and handicap toilet. I'm not sure how someone in a wheelchair would be able to get on the train but....
While I was on the 1st train someone came to get me to tell me that my bike had fallen. I went to the back and found it had only shifted a bit. I propped it up a little better and sat in the back by my bike to keep an eye on it. The guy who had come to get me spoke some English. We talked about my trip. He had just been to Amsterdam in June with his wife. He told me I couldn't go by train from the Black Sea to Istanbul. I would have to take the train from Constanta to Bucharest (about 3 hours) and then from Bucharest to Istanbul (about 10 hours).
Before leaving Calafat a guy got on the train with his bike. There were several empty plastic bottles in the baggage car. He proceeded to toss them into the field across from the tracks. On the 2nd train there were several children with 2 young adults. They had a kitten in a backpack with only its head sticking out of a gap. It looked very sad. It started crying. One of the older boys (8-9 years old) gave it a couple raps on the snout. I told him to be more gentle with the poor creature.
I was able to get off the tain without any difficulty. I cycled into town and checked in at the Hotel Edinburgh at 200 LEI/night with b'fast included and Wi-Fi and A/C. It was a bit hot as there was a power outage. As a matter of fact there were several more power outages especially while I was trying to do my blog.
It actually was an "apartment" i.e. bedroom, sitting room and bathroom (no kitchen). I carried my bags up 2 flights then went back down to secure my bike. I was able to bring it inside and put it in the restaurant which wasn't yet open. I lay down for a nap and later went out for a walk to get some money and find a place to eat. It was much to hot to enjoy a walkabout and I was quickly able to find an ATM. I returned to the Italian restaurant not far from the hotel and had a Heineken beer and a pizza for dinner.
As I said earlier, while I was typing my blog, there were several power outages. My Notebook was still OK running on battery backup but I couldn't see my notes! After several outages lasting anywheres from 1 to 5 minutes I was able to finish a day's blog and decided I would get a good night's rest.
Drum Bun (not sure what it means - it's on all the signs as you're leaving town and must mean good bye - I think)

This blog was posted at the Hotel Turris in Turnu Magurele on Friday, July 15, 2011

Day 50 - Europe 2011

Day 50 - Wednesday, July 13, 2011 - Orsova to Calafat, Romania - Trip 132.82 kms Time 8:19:44

Up at 6:30 after a quiet night. I went down for b'fast at 7:00. B'fast was a-la-carte. I was allowed 15 LEI. I ordered orange juice, tea, plain omelette, bread, butter and jam. When I checked out I had to pay "a little extra". I never did get to see a final bill for my room, dinner and "a little extra". I paid with a 100E note and got a lot of change in LEI. I think it was 400 LEI for 100 E.
I asked about buying a patch kit so I could patch my tube but no one had any idea where I would find such a thing let alone patch a tube. I went across the street to a taxi stand and they suggested going to a "Vulcanizer" shop. They are all over the place. I found one not to far off and after a bit of discussion one of the guys found a tin of "contact cement". After a good sanding he applied a coat of the blue stuff and blew on it for a good 10 minutes or so out in the hot sun. Finally it was tacky enough to apply a patch which I provided from my kit. After pressing it firmly I put some air in the tube and he put it in a water bath to test for leaks. It was OK. I offered to pay him some LEI but he refused to accept any money.
I went over to a Penny Market and bought some blood oranges, orange juice, trail mix and some figs. I also bought some sun block at the Apoteke next door. I set off for Drobeta-Turnu Severin at 9:15. On a nice wide paved highway with a paved shoulder all the way. It was amazing and a bit cooler than the previous days. When I got to Hinova instead of turning right and following the Danube I kept going straight ahead on the 56A for Vanju Mare where I thought I might find a hotel. There were no hotels or pensions until I got to Cetate at 5:30. I tried to check in but it was full. I pushed on to Calafat. I had to stop several more times for 1) a Fanta 2) a Nestea and 3) a large 1.5L bottle of water. I ate trail mix and figs for lunch and snacks. I stopped earlier at a cafe/restaurant for lunch. There was no menu. A guy offered to BBQ some sausages for me. I only wanted 2. Sorry, he said, you must have 5 or none at all.
There were 3 climbs on the way to Calafat. I had to get off and walk the last one. A Roma with a horse and wagon loaded with hay overtook me! The children were very friendly calling out hello as I passed and running out into the road to wave at me. The adults were also very vocal. Not sure what they were saying but it all sounded very encouraging.
I arrived in Calafat at 7:00 and found the Hotel ..... at 90 LEI/night including b'fast and Wi-Fi. I checked in and proceeded to take my bags up to room 108. The elevator scared the shit out of me. First of all the door wouldn't open at the ground floor. One of the girls went to get a lever to get the door open. I got in with my bags and pressed 1 and closed the inner doors. As I arrived at the 1st floor I opened the inner doors to soon and the elevator stopped about 2 feet short. It then proceeded to go back to the main floor. I pressed 1 again and waited until I had stopped at the 1st floor before opening the inner doors this time.
After putting my bags in my room I went back downstairs to secure by bike. This time I took the stairs. I went down 3 flights of stairs and ended up in the restaurant. The main lobby was down one more flight of stairs. When I got to the lobby my bike was gone! I checked with the receptionist. She showed me where it had been locked up in a small storage room. I wanted to get my water bottles.
I then went to the bar/restaurant for a beer and dinner. After getting a cold beer I asked for a menu. I wanted fish and chips but there was no fish. I then asked for a grilled porc chop with rice and mixed vegetables. There was no rice. I had to settled for a porc chop with fries and dry bread. It was all very dry but the beer helped wash it down. The waitress was very nonchalant and more interested in chatting and smoking with several other young girls all around 20 something. There was no ice cream in spite of it being on the menu.
It was now 9:00 ish. I went up my my room. Had a shower and did some laundry. I was able to set up the Notebook and get an Internet connection in my room. I typed up Day 47 of my blog. While I was typing I could hear a dripping sound coming from the A/C. I turned it off and was off to bed at 11:30.

This blog was posted at the Hotel Turris in Turnu Magurele on Friday, July 15, 2011

Day 49 - Europe 2011

Day 49 - Tuesday, July 12, 2011 - Coronini to Orsova, Romania - Trip 101.19 Time 6:17:06

I was hoping it would rain and cool things down a bit but no such luck. It was a very uncomfortable night. The room was like a sauna. I did manage to get some sleep in spite of the heat and noise. I got up at 6:30, did some packing before going down to b'fast. A young fellow who spoke good English, that I had spoken to while fixing my flat, was having b'fast. He asked if I had managed to fix my flat OK. I said I had to use my 2nd spare tube. I wanted to patch the punctured tube but found out the small tube of glue in my patch kit had completely evaporated! This was not a good omen. It meant I would have to travel without a spare tube or complete patch kit. I figured if worse came to worse I could put a patch on my tube and hold it in place with some black electrical tape. The young fellow had no idea where I could get a patch kit.
For b'fast I ordered orange juice, coffee, fried egg, sausage, etc. I didn't realize I had to pay 8 LEI extra for orange juice and coffee! There was also a mug of lovely tea, bread, butter and jam.
I left Corinini at 8:00. The road was flat, smooth pavement and followed the Danube pretty much all the way to Orsova. There were a couple of climbs on the way to Dubova and Orsova and an 8 km stretch of very rough gravel, pot holed road where there had been several rock slides. Very little traffic. Very hot. No shops or restaurants until I got to Dubova. I went into a shop to get something for lunch. All I got was cookies and a couple jam rolls and a cold drink. Restaurants were another 5 kms or so down the road. I arrived in Orsova at 4:00 after a couple more stops for drinks. I checked into the Hotel Meridien for 50 E per night including b'fast and Internet. After carying my panniers up to the 2nd floor I returned to the lobby to secure my bike in a broom closet. There was a really super huge covered patio with misters and fans trying to cool things down a bit. Tried a local beer but it tasted a bit skunky. Filled in my journal. Tried a Stella. There was no draught beer, just large bottles or cans of beer. The Stella beer tasted skunky also! You can't beat a good draught beer!

This blog was posted at the Hotel Turris in Turnu Magurele, Romania, Friday, July 15, 2011

Day 48 - Europe 2011

Day 48 - Monday, July 11, 2011 - Bela Crkva to Coronini, Romania - Trip 74.89 kms Time 4:57

I was up at 6:45 and since my "private accommodation" didn't offer any b'fast I had to make do with a banana and an apple. I took my panniers down to the car port and checked my front and rear wheels. The disc brakes are rubbing now and then. I pumped up both tires and left the pension at 8:15 after saying goodbye to the "boss lady". I stopped at a "Mechanica" and exchanged 10 E for 1,000 CSD and went over to the bakery for b'fast. I was able to get an egg and cheese pastry and a sugar bun filled with Nutella and coffee. I also got a submarine sandwich with ham, cucumber and mayo to go. In hindsite because of the very hot temp. mayo was probably not such a good choice.
I set off for Kaluderovo and the Serbian/Romanian border at 8:30. It was 11 kms to the border. I arrived at 9:00. It was very quiet. No traffic at all. I met Michel, a cyclist from Paris, who was just clearing customs ahead of me. He was also travelling solo and was equipped for camping. After clearing customs we discussed the two routes to get to Pojejena. One way was to go directly over the mountains (about 12 kms) or to take the longer, flatter route around Zlatita, Socol, Divici, Belobresca and Pojejena. I said I was going to take the longer route as I didn't like climbing hills. Michel went off to find a shady spot to put some sleeves on to protect his arms from the relentless sun. I left on my own.
I stoped at 10:30 for a break and Michel caught up to me. He started complaining that it was so much longer then going directly over the hills. I didn't want to listen to his complaints so left him behind. He was going much slower up the not so difficult hills with his heavier bike and load. I had to stop several times for cold drinks and to get out of the hot sun. I arrived in Moldova Noua at 2:30. I asked several people about where to find an hotel. They all said I had to continue on to Coronini where I would find a Pension. It was another 6 kms further down the road. I bought a diet coke at a gas station and set off for Coronini. I arrived at the Pensiunea Happy Fish at 3:30. A single room with b'fast cost 25E/night. There was no Internet and no A/C. I made the mistake of leaving my bike in the hot sun while I was putting my bags up in my room. When I came back down for a beer one of the customers told me I had a flat front tire. I think the hot sun may have caused the tube to burst. I decided to have a cold beer and that I would deal with the flat later when it cooled down a bit. I saw a team of horses pulling an old style hay wagon with two guys riding on it. One of them was talking on his cellphone.
To many power failures will try and finish this later....
I was able to fix my flat tire by using my 2nd spare tube. I wanted to patch the puncture in my other tube but discovered that the vulcanizing fluid in my little tube in my patch kit had completely evaporated.
My next challenge was to get through dinner. It was quite a battle between myself, the flies and the dogs. In the end I managed but... I forgot to mention that Michel arrived at 4:30 ish while I was almost finished my 2nd beer. He wasn't to keen on the "Happy Fish" and said he would go on into Coronini where he had been told of another Pension. I offered to buy him a beer but he wanted to keep going. There was quite a storm brewing off in the West. Lots of thunder and lightning. Quite a spectacular sunset over the Danube. I took some photos.
As I was paying my bill for dinner the waitress mentioned something about Scorpio. I said no I was a Leo. She said "NO NO A SCORPIO!" but she didn't say where.
I had a very restless night's sleep because of late customers, the wind blowing plastic bottles around in the parking lot and the dogs barking at whatever and my room was like a sauna.

This blog was posted at the Hotel Edinborugh in Caracal, Romania, Thursday, July 14, 2011

Day 47 - Europe 2011

Day 47 - Sunday, July 10, 2011 - Pozaverac, Serbia to Bela Crkva, Serbia - Trip 59.44 kms Time 4:22:53

Once again I'm going to be brief as it's quite late and I must be off to bed soon.
After a horrible breakfast served by Attilla the waitress I loaded my panniers on my bike and headed for Kostolac. I had to take a detour as the more direct route was being resurfaced. I ended up at a Sunday farmers market where fruit, vegetables, chickens, etc were being sold. I needed to get some water so went into a discount store. The shop in the hotel, where I had planned to buy some water before leaving, was closed on Sundays. I asked for directions to Kostelac and set off at 8:45. It was a nicely paved road all the way to Ram with some pretty rough patched up stretches. The section between Kostelac and Drmno was especially bad. I really needed mountain bike tires! I think I was on a road closed to cyclists which I didn't realize at the time.
On the way to Ram I was passed by a farmer on his tractor pulling an empty wagon twice. About 5 kms further up the road he had pulled off into a field and parked in the shade under a tree. There was another farmer with him who came out to the side of the road with a picnic hamper and motioned for me to come join them for somethng to eat. It was around 10:30 and I needed a break. They had a large baking pan with about a dozen pastries which looked very tasty. They also had china plates (3), forks, serviettes, etc. I was served 2 pastries which were a bit salty but very tasty nevertheless. They hardly spoke any English but wanted to know where I was from, Where I was going, etc. They were about to do some combining.
I arrived in Ram at 11:30. There were several other cyclists there including one with a flat tire on his mountain bike which he was in the process of repairing. The tube he had wouldn't fit because the valve stem was to large. He had to make the valve stem hole in the rim bigger using some sand paper.
I went into the cafe for a cold drink while waiting for the ferry. Two of the cyclists invited me to join them. They bought me a Fanta (small). The ferry for Stara Polanka was about to leave so I had to rush off in order not to miss it. The guy fixing his flat tire still had his rear wheel off and had to gather up all his parts and carry them onto the ferry where he was able to finish his repairs. It cost 250 CSD for the ferry crossing.
The ferry landing was just a gravel bank and we had to wait while a deck hand filled in the trough gouged out by the ferry. I set off for Bonatska Polanka/Bella Crkva. It was quite hot but with a bit of a breeze. The guy with the flat tire and his buddy caught up to me. They were on their way to Bela Crkva to go swimming. There are several lakes there and it is a popular tourists destination or so I was told.
I arrived in Bela Crkva at 1:30 and saw a sign for a hotel. There didn't appear to be any possibilities for another town with hotel accommodation for quite a distance so I decided I whould stop for the night. I went through the town but could not find the hotel. I stopped at a Cafe and the manager, who spoke some English, told me the hotel would be fully booked because of all the tourists. But, his next door neighbour had a private room where I could stay. If I cared to wait 5 minutes he would finish up and would show me the way. I had a nice cold beer while he got ready to go home. I followed him for about a km. As we arrived the "boss lady" was just disappearing down the sidewalk on her way to do some shopping.
While waiting for her to retun I was able to plan my route for tomorrow with the help of ...... I never did get his name? Soon the "boss lady" returned. She spoke a bit of German. She showed me the room upstairs. It was more like an apartment with a kitchen, dinning room and bedroom and bathroom. There were also several other rooms. The room cost 1,000 CSD for the night. No b'fast and no Internet but it would have to do.
After a short nap and doing my laundry I cycled into town to look for a place to eat. There were a lot of cafes but they only serve drinks and ice cream. I finally found a bakery and was able to get a pizza and a Nestea for 130 CSD and a huge slice of cake for 100 CSD.
When I got back to the apartment The boss's son was busy cleaning out the pool. He spoke quite good English and said if I needed anything to just let him know. He lived on the 3rd floor while his mother occupied the 1st floor. Quite a huge house.

This blog was posted at the hotel ........ in Calafat, Romania, on Wednesday, July 13, 2011
where I have a lovely A/C which has just started to drip on the carpet!!!

Day 46 - Europe 2011

Day 46 - Saturday, July 9, 2011 - Belgrade to Pozarevac, Serbia - Trip 75.44 kms Time 5:19:43

Since I'm posting this in the lobby of the Meridian Hotel in Osorva, Romania, I won't bore you with all the details of my daily ritual.
I left Belgrade at 8:40 AM after getting a map and directions from the desk clerk. I set off for Grocka and started climbing as soon as I left the hotel. It was a 2 km climb! I then headed for Smederevo and Pozarevac. There were 3 more difficult climbs before I arrived in Pozarevac at 3:30. I was really feeling the heat so stopped at a Restaurant about 5-6 kms outside of Pozarevac for a cold drink. There was some kind of reception going on. When I tried to park my bike in the shade I was chased away by a camera guy. I went over to the opposite side and got a cold drink at the service station next door. There were not many choices in the way of hotels as a matter of fact the Hotel Dunav is the only one listed in my guide book. After asking for directions I was able to find it. The hotel marquee was blocked out by trees.
After putting my bags in my room and storing my bike in the basement I returned to the lobby to try to connect to the Internet using Wi-Fi. I had no trouble establishing a connection. There were several drink coolers in the lobby so I helped myself to a LAV lager beer while I checked my e-mail.
After doing some laundry and having a short nap I went for a walk down Main Street. It had been closed off to traffic including the main square. I found a fast food restaurant and had was able to get some dinner. There are a lot of cafes that only serve drinks and icecream - no food. The Serbians don't seem to be big on eating out at restaurants. On my way back to the hotel the kids were riding battery operated cars around the square.
I couldn't get a Wi-Fi connection in my room so went down to the lobby and the desk clerk showed me where I could plug in my Notebook. She also turned up the lights so I could type up Day 45 of my blog.
Cheers, Roly

Day 45 - Europe 2011

Day 45 - Friday, July 8, 2011 - Ruma, Serbia to Belgrad, Serbia - Trip 76.64 kms Time 4:50:48

I had a good night's sleep in spite of a dozen or more kids hanging out in the lot behind the hotel. I closed all the windows and turned on the A/C. I got up at 6:40 and went to the restaurant also on the 3rd floor for b'fast. I ordered coffee (not to strong), orange juice, scrambled eggs, bread and butter and jam (only one choice - marmalade). The waitress asked me to call the reception when I was ready to leave and someone would come up to help me carry my bike down. I went back to my room and called the receptionist who asked me "Do you need help?" I said "I could manage OK on my own." I started down the stairs with my bike and a guy met me on the 2nd floor and took over. I carried my panniers down to the lobby. Paid 3,050 HRK when I checked out. Before leaving I asked for directions to Putinci/Stara Pazova. The young fellow, who was still hanging about, indicated I should follow the main road in front of the hotel all the way to the Danube at Stari Banovci. When I came to Hwy 21, which I had to go over, the sign indicated Novi Sad left and Sabac right but nothing for Stara Pazova. I couldn't get either Putinci or Stara Pazova on my GPS just Belgrad and the directions were very vague! There was no one around to ask for directions so I took a chance and went up on the Hwy overpass where I was able to see another sign which indicated Stara Pazova straight ahead. It was pretty flat all the way and very boring. Not to much traffic until I made the turn at Stari Banovci. I got stuck behind a tractor pulling a wagon loaded with loose hay. Good thing I don't have any allergies! A guy pulled up beside me in his car and asked me where I was from. I told him CANADA. He invited me to come to his house for cold water and olives? I said "No thankyou - I'm OK". My main objective was to get to Belgrad as quickly as possible and hopefully find a bike shop where I could get my disc brakes fixed. The road became very patchy and rough at Batajnica. I had to make a right and a left turn. I must have managed the right turn OK but went through the lights at the left turn. I quickly realized my mistake and made a U-turn. I asked a local if this was the way to Belgrad and he pointed straight on. It was a very busy road - lots of trucks and buses and not very wide with a lot of rough patches and sunken drainage grates that would totally wreck a bicycle wheel if you were not careful. On the way to Stara Pazova I stopped at a corner store and bought a cold drink, a chocolat bar and a huge pastry with cheese. It was very filling! When I arrived in Belgrad I went into a corner store and bought some apples, oranges, bananas, water and a cold pop. I had a banana and some more cheese pastry with my cold drink. It was around 12:30. I asked a few people where I could find a bicycle shop. No luck. There was nothing listed in my guide book either. After cycling around for an hour in the very hot city I found a car parts shop that sold Thule stuff. I went in and asked the parts guy if he knew of a bike shop that could fix disc brakes. He wasn't to busy and after doing a bit of research on the Internet and making a couple calls he was able to locate Planet Bike shop about 2 kms from his shop where I could get help with my disc brakes. He said his colleague would soon arrive and he would take me to the shop. All I had to do was follow him on his scooter! His colleague soon arrived and together they also found a room for me at the Hotel Serbia and printed off a map with directions on how to get to it. Going to the bike shop was OK. Lots of traffic lights, crosswalks and only 2 kms. I was able to take my bike in around the back and a mechanic adjusted the back and front brakes. The front were really out of whack and it took him 1/2 an hour to get them adjusted properly. They were amazed that I had cycled from Amsterdam and that I was going to Instanbul. The mechanic asked how old I was. When I told him I was 67, soon to be 68, he shook my hand. I still had to pay 250 HRK for the adjustments which was OK by me because a bike with no brakes is pretty scary especially when you're going down hills at 45 + kph. The parts guy then took me over to the very busy main road and pointed me in the direction of the hotel. It was about 5 kms away. I had to stop once after crossing the bridge and asked for directions again. It was a very tricky exit ramp that looped back over the main road then continued on on the opposite side parallel to the main road. The Hotel Serbia was another 3-4 kms along. It was quite a big hotel (18 floors). I went in and asked for a room. A single room with b'fast and Wi-Fi cost 4,200 HRK or about 45 E. I checked in at 3:30. I was able to store my bike in the baggage room by the front desk. I took my bags up to the 13th floor using a baggage cart and the elevator. Did some laundry. I managed to knock a glass over wrapped in a sanitary bag so not to much of a mess to clean up. I lay down for a nap after my shower. I got up at 5:40 and tried to connect to the Internet. No luck. I went out in the hallway and found the router by the elevators. There was a coffee table, sofa and chairs so I was able to set up my Notebook and get a Wi-Fi connection. It was very slow in spite of a reading of 54 Mbps and Excellent connection. I went down to the outdoor patio bar for a beer. Only small bottles of beer at 130 HRK. I filled in my journal. I ordered Penne Ortolana at 450 HRK and a 1/4 L red wine. It came in a small 1/4 L bottle. It was a very nice local wine. After settling my bill I went back up to my room. In spite of having an Internet connection I was not able to download or upload anything in my room so I went out in the halllway and sat by the elevators where I was able to type up Day 44 of my blog. It was very hot. No A/C in the hallways. I was off to bed at 10:30.

Note to self - always finish off the whole chocolat bar - otherwise it turns to mush in the very hot temps. Luckily there was a Mini Bar fridge and i was able to put it in the fridge to get it solid again.

This blog was posted at the Hotel Dunav in Pozarevac, Serbia on Saturday, July 9, 2011

Day 44 - Europe 2011

Day 44 - Thursday, July 7, 2011 - Ilok, Croatia to Ruma, Serbia - Trip 75.85 kms Time 4:55:55

I woke up at 2:30 and the noise had stopped or somebody had finally put that guy out of his misery! I opened my window again hoping to get a bit of a breeze coming off of the Danube but all I got was a dog barking! I got up at 6:40 and went down for b'fast at 7:15. It was all the usual b'fast stuff. I was even able to make myself a ham and cheese sandwich on some very nice fresh sliced bread. I must say Croatia and now Serbia really like their bread.
After b'fast I went around back and collected my bike from the storage room. I checked out and paid 300 KN for the night of much noise. I complained about the terrible noise (music). The receptionist apologized and said it was coming from Serbia and there was nothing they could do about it.
I left for Novi Sad at 8:30. There were a lot of hills (10 altogether) during the day's ride. The last one before Ruma was especially long and difficult. I passed through Hungarian/Serbian customs at 9:00. They were very friendly. Not much traffic on this quiet back country road.
I passed through Nestin, Susek, Cerevic, Beocin and Sremskikamenica. Had I followed the directions in the guide book I should have gone to Petrovaradin but I turned off towards Ruma on the 21. Not by choice but because of poor signage or lack of it! I stopped to ask if I could continue along the road I was on to Belgrad and was assured it was OK but it was a difficult way to go on a bike. At least that's the impression I got. Which is what I found out. It was a very difficult climb that took me well over 2 hours. Very hot with temps at 35 C +. No breeze. I had to get off several times and walk. Once I started coming down I was doing well over 45 kph with the brakes on! or what was left of them. There was a lot of traffic and I didn't want to get going to fast in case I suddenly had to stop. My brakes were not working all that well.
I stopped in Irig and after talking to a local about my trip, etc he told me about his dream of one day cycling to Paris/Barcelona. I got directions to a "hole in the wall" where I could change Euros to Dinars at 10-1. I went to the cafe next door and got 2 small bottles of water and a Nestea. Why do they only sell small bottles in Serbia?
I continued on to Ruma which was mostly downhill on a good well paved road. I arrived in Ruma at 3:00. It was very hot. 38C+ and after all the difficult hills I decided to find an hotel for the night. I checked out the Vila Hit and was able to get a room with b'fast and Internet for 31 E. I asked about a bike shop where I could get my brakes adjusted. They said they would do some research and get back to me. I locked my bike up outside the hotel/cafe and a guy helped me carry my bags up to the 3rd floor. I went down to the cafe for a nice cold beer and filled in my journal.
I worried about leaving my bike out on the street overnight. There was no garage or storage room. After 2 beers and sitting in 38C heat in the shade I decided to go up to my room which had an A/C. But first I asked about the safey of my bicycle and said I wanted to put it in my room for the night. There was a big discussion between the receptionist, the waiter and a young kid (around 20) who appeared to be in charge. The receptionist wanted to put it in the kitchen but it would have to be out by 7;00 AM. In the end the young fella carried it up to my room followed by the receptionist and myself. She removed a small area carpet and I was able to keep my bike by my bedside for the night.
I did some laundry. Checked the Internet which was OK and had a nap. I was very tired. The hills and the heat had really zapped me. The shower turned out to be a bit of a challenge. It's all brand new state of the art but already falling apart. I managed. I went out for a walk to find a restaurant. I apologized to the receptionist re having my bike in my room. She said it was hotel policy not to allow bicycles in the rooms but for me they had made an exception.
She recommended a local restaurant not far from the hotel. There didn't seem to be any other choices around. I asked for spaghetti bolognese but was told only "grill". I chose the "Cordon Blu" with a mixed salad and pommes frites. The local LAV lager beer is very nice. There were "No Smoking" signs on the main door but they don't seem to mean anything. The manager just brought out fresh ashtrays. I had a huge meal. The portions are supersized. I couldn't eat all of it! I walked back to the hotel. Bought a coke from a street vendor. Did Day 43 of my blog and was off to bed at 10:30.

This blog was posted at the Hotel Serbia in Belgrad, Friday, July 8, 2011

Day 43 - Europe 2011

Water tower in Vukovar, Croatia

Day 43 - Wednesday, July 6, 2011 - Osijek, Croatia to Ilok, Croatia - Trip 85.57 kms Time 4:38

I got up at 6:40 after a good night's sleep. Very quiet in spite of room being on busy main street. I went to the restaurant on the 1st floor for b'fast at 7:15. There was plenty of everything to choose from including fresh fruit i.e. watermelon, Honey Dew melon, etc. Also scrambled eggs, bacon, sausages, etc. and ketchup! After a hearty b'fast I went back to my room and finished packing. On the way to my room I spotted a water cooler in the hallway. I took my 2 water bottles and filled them with nice cool water. I carried my panniers down to the lobby. Paid 758 HRK (1 HRK for insurance and 7 HRK for taxes).
I left my bags in the lobby and went across the street to a local bank to try and change my KN to Serbian and/or Euros. The bank teller would only change Euros to KN. I went to the next bank and was able to exchange some of my excess KN for 200 Euros. No Serbian (Dinars) currency. They would not take any Ft.
I went back to the hotel and collected my bike from the storage room. I asked the receptionist for directions to Nemetin. I just had to take the main street in front of the hotel all the way out of town which turned out to be about 5 kms.
I stopped to take photos of the "mine field signs" just outside of town near Nemetin and a water tower in Vukovar which was used for target practice during the civil war. It's been left standing as a reminder of the futility of war. I had lunch at a pizza place just outside of Vukovar. I actually got a pizza with proper pepperoni sausage on it plus bacon and ham which I had not asked for plus a separate pitcher of tomato sauce to pour on it!
After Vukovar I had several tough hills to climb in very hot 35 C + temperatures. There was no breeze at all. I arrived in Ilok at 3:00 and checked into Hotel Dunav, a three star hotel by the Danube, at 300 KN/night including b'fast and Internet. I put my bike away in a storage room around back and went to the bar overlooking the Danube for a beer (2). Filled in my journal. On the way back to my room I passed by an ice cream freezer. I had 2 scoops for 10 KN. Back in my room I set up the Notebook. I had no problems connecting to the Internet with a cable. Did some laundry including 2 pair of cycling shorts, arm & leg warmers, etc. The water was pretty black by the time I finished. There is a lot of black smoke coming from most the big trucks that pass me. Lay down for a nap after a shower.
I got up at 6:00 PM and typed up Day 41 of blog before going down to the patio for dinner. The hotel was quite isolated and there were no other restaurants within walking distance. I ordered Chicken Breast in Parisian Style with a glass of white wine. I had passed many vineyards on the ride from Osijek to Ilok. The guide book also mentions that Ilok is the center of one of the most fruitful wine producing areas in Slavonia which include Riesling, Savagnin and Burgundies. The white wine was excellent. The chicken, on the other hand, was a bit tough and came with 5 scoops of mashed potatoes and pommes croquettes. Whoever heard of a Parisian dish with so many potatoes? I ate it all! Plus another 1/4 L of white wine. It really was a good wine.
While I was in my room I could hear a guy singing accompanied by accordion and drums. When I was sitting in the outdoor patio restaurant I couldn't hear him. I took several pictures of the sunset over the Danube and one for 2 couples at the table next to me who were having quite a feast. I bought a large bottle of water (750 cl for 15 KN) before going back up to my room. Once again I could hear the guy with his b... caught in his accordion or so it seemed. It was coming from across the river in Serbia! I typed up my blog for Day 42. The music/noise went on and on 'til way past midnight. I had to close the balcony door/window and was able to drown out most of the it.
Cheers, Roly

This blog was posted in Ruma, Serbia, on Thursday, July 7, 2011 at the Vila HIT Hotel

Day 42 - Europe 2011

Day 42 - Tuesday, July 5, 2011 - Mohacs, HU to Osijek, Croatia - Trip 90.77 kms Time 5:14:55

Got up at 6:30 after a good night's sleep once the ferry stopped running at 10:30 except for a bunch of drunks who came by on their bikes at 12:30 and made a hell of a racket for 10 minutes or so. I'm not sure if they heard me yell at them to F... Off!!! but they soon left after that.
I went up to the 4th floor looking for b'fast as I had been told by the desk clerk that's where I would find it. A maid took me down in the elevator to the 1st floor and showed me where I could get b'fast.
I checked out at 8:30 after paying 11,415 Ft (415 Ft for taxes). I cycled to a drug store not far from the hotel hoping to find some maps for Croatia, Serbia, Romania and Turkey. There were none. Oh well, I would surely find some on the way.
I left for Udvar and the Croatian border at 8:45. It was a nicely paved quiet country road through mainly farm land i.e. corn, wheat, sunflower fields, vineyards and orchards. I passed through Hungarian and Croatian customs without any problems. Both custom agents asked for my passport and stamped it.
Before crossing the border I had stopped at a gas station convenience store and was able to buy maps for Croatia, Serbia and Romania and a large bottle of water. I dumped the water from the hotel as it stank of sulphur or some such chemical and filled my water bottles with the water I had just bought.
I cycled through Dubosevica, Topolje, Gajic and Batina. I had to stop and get directions several times especially at Batina. Apparently my GPS maps of Europe did not include Croatia!!! The road from Batina to Majevac/Suza was especially difficult to find. It was barred to traffic because it was being resurfaced with asphalt and the Ruta Dunav sign was hidden behind some trucks. I tried 2 other directions before coming back to the 5 way intersection and spotting the sign for Suza. The trucks had moved on. The road had only been paved for about the 1st km the rest of the 7 kms or so were pretty rough gravel that had been passed over by a grader and was being prepped for paving. After that he rest of the route to Osijek was well paved and I was able to arrive at 3:00 after a short stop at an ATM to get some local currency, the Kuna. I'm a bit shaky when it comes to math. I checked my guide and it said 1 Euro = 7.2 KN. I figured I only needed enough KN for 2 days so got 3,000 KN. Later I realized I had gotten around 400 E worth of KN. Me and my lousy math skills. I had a feeling I was going to be stuck with a lot of KN!!!
On the way in to Osijek, which is quite a big city, there were several signs pointing to various 4, 3 and 2 star hotels. I'll be damned if I could find any of them. I ended up at the main train station where a taxi driver noticed I looked a bit lost. When he offered to help I told him I was looking for an hotel. He said he had a room to rent for 240 KN I think with W/C and shower. No b'fast. Maybe Internet. He would have to check with his son. He said it was 900 M from the main cathedral. I agreed to go and have a look. I had a little trouble keeping up to him even though he said he would go slowly in his taxi. It was several kms before we arrived at a nice house in a quiet street. It was a very nice apartment but a bit of a hike from restaurants, etc and after checking with his son no Internet. I decided to look for an hotel.
On the way I had spotted a hotel so retraced my steps. It was a 3 star at 45 E/night with b'fast but no Internet. I decided to try elsewhere. I eventually found the Waldinger a 4 star hotel at 105 E. with b'fast and Wi-Fi. The desk clerk spoke both English and German fluently. I decided to check in in spite of the high cost of the room. the clerk helped me carry my two heavy rear panniers up to my room on the 1st floor after securing my bike in a storage room for the night.
I went down to the bar for a local beer (bottled). A draught beer would have been nicer I'm sure. I started filling in my journal. Went back up to my room and did my laundry. Showered and went out for dinner after checking Wi-Fi. It was OK. I walked towards the cathedral in the main square and found a shop where I was able to buy a note pad and scotch tape. There wasn't enough space in my journal for all my notes and I was having to add pages which were starting to fall out all over the place. I had dinner at McDs, walked back to the hotel and typed up Day 40 of my blog. Finished filling in my journal for the day and was off to bed at 9:30
Cheers, Roly

This blog was posted at the Hotel Dunav in Ilok, Croatia, on Wednesday, July 6, 2011