Wednesday, June 19/13.
We were up at 7:00 AM and did some packing before going to breakfast at 7:30. Everything was laid out for us in the kitchen i.e. juice, cereal, several varieties of bread for toast, waffles, peanut butter, jams, etc. Andre, who was packed and ready to go on to Rimouski, joined us for breakfast before leaving at 8:15. It was 8:30 before we were ready to leave for Cabano about 70 kms from Riviere-du-Loup in the direction of Edmunston. We decided to take the Route Verte #8 which turned out to be an all gravel trail. But first we had to climb a very long steep hill to get to it. It took a half hour to climb the hill and find the trail. We both worked up quite a sweat and had to strip off a couple layers before going on. The trail was a gradual uphill climb for the first 40 kms. We had to stop many times to give our butts a break. Unfortunately, each time we stopped the black flies would torment us and it was difficult to enjoy the peaceful atmosphere and enjoy the scenery. It took us 5 hours to cycle the first 40 kms of the trail as it was mostly uphill, loose gravel and the weight of our panniers prevented us from going much more than 12 kph. We stopped at a motel about 12 kms outside of Cabano to check out how much a room would cost. It also had a restaurant that opened at 5:00 PM but nothing else for miles around. They wanted $72/night plus taxes. The manager told us we would find everything we were looking for in Cabano and that it was all downhill!!! Since she was pointing to the highway we assumed we were allowed to cycle on it so off we went. It wasn't until we reached the first of four exits for Cabano that Bev saw a sign that said bicycles were not allowed on the highway. We quickly got off at the next exit and went over to the ? to ask about accommodations. The lady told us the ? would officially open tomorrow but, nevertheless, she recommended the Motel Royal which was a further 3 kms back up the trail. Had we stayed on the trail we would have passed it on our way into town. We cycled over to the motel and I was able to negotiate from $85 to $ 75 for a nice room for the night. We locked our bikes up to the bike rack outside our room after unloading our bikes and walked down the hill to the Pub du Lac for a much deserved cold beer and some nachos. We returned to our motel to freshen up before walking into town for some groceries. We found a Depanneur that was still open and were able to get supplies for tomorrow's breakfast and lunch as there is nothing available on the trail - just a lot of rest spots with picnic tables and benches. We decided to have dinner at the Bar du Duc before returning to our motel. I had a cheese burger with fries and salad and a glass of red wine. Bev chose a 6" pizza with spaghetti. There were no leftovers. Cycling and all that fresh air sure improves ones appetite. We returned to our motel and as I walked into our room a black fly followed me in. Before I or Bev could swat it it managed to bite me on the temple next to my right eye. That makes a total of 4 bites I've gotten on this trip so far. I should be one hell of mess by the time I get to St.Johns, NL!!! The trail really knocked the stuffing out of Bev and she's already in La-La Land. Just watching the Jays vs Rockies ballgame. Won't be long before I join her.
Motel Royal, Cabano, QC
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